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324.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves.
Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black
silk elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.
This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple
wool, so that the raised ribs appear black on
one side and purple on the other. The bodice fits quite close. It
is fastened in front with black bone buttons and a steel buckle.
Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at the bottom.
the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast on 170 stitches.
The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not too loose.
Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were
going to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the
stitch which has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the
wool forward, slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool
In the 25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as
Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with
purple, but as the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be
alternately knitted and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side
from right to left.
The following 26th row is worked with black
wool in common brioche stitch, only the slipped stitch of the
preceding row is purled together with the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward.
27th row: Turn the work, with purple wool purled
28th row: On the same side with black wool knitted
After having worked 40 rows all in the same manner,
begin the front gore.
Divide the stitches upon three needles, 82
stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for
each front part on the two other needles.
Then work the first 11
stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that
side of the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted
brioche stitch; the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with
the wool thrown forward, therefore it is a purple rib.
stitch begin the gore with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are
then worked so that a purple one comes over a black one, and a
black one over a purple one. Do not work upon the following black
stitch; knit the following stitch with the one formed by throwing
the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and then only slip the
black stitch which had been left, so that it comes behind the
stitch which has just been knitted.
This crossing of the stitch is
repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together with
the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are
then knitted together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in
opposite directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off
together as 1 stitch in the next row form the middle line of the
front gore, and are continued in a straight line to the point of
the gore. The crossing takes place twice in this row, but now the
black stitch is slipped first.
After the 24th stitch knit together
the following stitch with the stitch formed by throwing the wool
forward. Then continue to work in common brioche stitch to the
other front part, where the gore begins before the 24th stitch from
In the next row, which is worked in purled brioche stitch
with black wool, take up the black loop between two purple ribs
after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch
which is missing at that place.
The 3 slipped stitches in the
preceding row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch
formed by throwing the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is
also taken up on the other side of the front gore in the same
manner, as well as on the other front part.
Then work 6 rows
without increasing or decreasing.
The crossing of the stitch is
repeated after every 7 rows, always on the knitted brioche stitch
side, with purple wool.
In the 18th row of the gore the 3 middle
stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so that the
pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches only
must be decreased, two in every 6th row.
After the 60th row another
decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for
the neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch
from the front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to
the neck are cast off together with the 5 stitches on the
Then cast off loosely the stitches of the back; take all
the selvedge stitches of the front on the needles, and knit 24 rows
of brioche stitch with black wool, making 9 button-holes on the
right front part. On the wrong side of this part sew on a strip of
black silk, with slits worked round in button-hole stitch,
stitching at the same time into the knitting.
scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the
needles, work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch
purled, thread the wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off
3 stitches together, draw the wool through the needle, and take the
2 following stitches on the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from
Sew on the buttons the strips of silk elastic on either side of
the black stripe at the bottom, and fasten the ends of the latter
with the steel buckle.
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