All care
has been given to present this in the original form.
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(This book is in the public domain)
[i]
KNITTING,
CROCHET, AND NETTING
WITH
TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS.
BY
MLLE. RIEGO
DE LA BRANCHARDIERE,
Teacher of Fancy Works.
[iii]
TO LADY MARTINS,
THIS LITTLE WORK IS HUMBLY DEDICATED,
WITH HER KIND PERMISSION,
BY THE AUTHORESS.
[iv]
[v]
PREFACE
The Authoress, having had much experience
in teaching, and always writing her own directions, has been induced to
publish this little Volume for the use of her pupils; and as all the
receipts have been tried, she can with confidence answer for their
accuracy. Should any further instructions be required, she will wait
upon any Lady, who will apply at S. Knights,
6, ’Change Alley, Cornhill; Howell and
James, Regent Street; and at all the
principal Berlin shops.
[iii]
CONTENTS.
KNITTING.
PAGE
Terms used in Knitting
1
Manchette or Undersleeves
3
Vandyke Edging
4
Taie D’Oreiller
5
Davidoff Cap
6
Twelve D’Oyleys:—
Rosette Pattern
8
Pique Pattern
9
Chenee Pattern
10
Eglantier Pattern
11
Tablette Pattern
12
Plume Pattern
12
Mimosa Pattern
13
Lattice Pattern
15
Lady Bruce’s Pattern
16
Festoon Pattern
17
Target Pattern
17
Arabesque Pattern
18
Knitted Purse
19
Anti Macassar
19
Shetland Shawl
21
Vandyke Edging
25
Turkish Pattern Muff
26
Pelerine
27
Foot Muff
29
Driving Mitts
31
Point Lace Edging
32
Scollop Edging
35
Diamond Edging
37
Treble Diamond Edging
38
Fringe for D’Oyleys
39
Travelling Cap
39
Shetland Scarf
40
Petit Point Quilt or Table Cover
41
Border for Quilt
42
Baby’s Socks
42
Square Shawl
44
Border for Shawl
45
Polka
46
Child’s Frock
49
Carriage Mat
51
Réseau Quilt
52
Fringe for Quilt
53
CROCHET.
Terms used in Crochet
55
Shepherd’s Crochet
57
Double Crochet
57
Treble Crochet
58
Crochet In two colors
58
Six Round D’Oyleys:—
Diamond Pattern
59
Damier Pattern
60
Trellis Pattern
61
Filet Pattern
62
Scollop Pattern
63
Seme Pattern
64
Fringe for D’Oyleys
65
Scollop for D’Oyleys
65
Wheel Pattern Insertion
65
Ecaille Pattern Edging
66
Open Vandyke Edging
66
Close Vandyke Edging
67
Double Scollop Edging
68
Diamond Insertion
68
Cuffs, Diamond Pattern
69
Edge for Cuffs
70
Crochet Collar
70
Round Sofa Pillow
71
Bead Crochet
72
Handsome Bead Purse
72
Bead Purse
73
Table Cover in Squares
73
Bell Pulls
74
Greek Cap
75
Card Case
77
Bag
78
Square Sofa Pillow
79
Half-square Shawl
80
Another Shawl
81
Crochet Shoes
81
Sole for Shoes
82
Crochet Open Purse
82
Shamrock Purse
83
Honey Comb Edging
83
Anti-Macassar
84
Travelling Bag
85
Table Cover
86
A Chain
87
Cap
88
NETTING.
Anti-Macassar
89
D’Oyley
90
Bread Basket D’Oyley
90
Netted Purse
90
Purse for a Lady
91
Bead Purse
91
Wedding Purse with Motto
92
Plain Purse with Motto
93
[1]
TERMS
USED IN KNITTING.
Cast on—Make a loop on 1 pin, and with the
other pin knit a plain stitch without taking it off, pass it on to the
left pin and repeat.
Cast off—Knit 2 stitches, pass the 1st stitch
knitted over the 2nd, knit 1, turn the 2nd stitch over the last, and
repeat to the end; then cut off the cotton and draw it through to fasten
it.
The 1st stitch of every row should be slipped.
To make round after casting on 3 pins with the 4th
pin, knit the 1st stitch cast on.
In purling a row, the wool should be in front
of the pin. When there are purl and plain stitches in a row, bring the
cotton forward to purl, and pass it back before knitting the plain
stitch.
To knit 3 together—Slip a stitch, knit 2
together, turn the slipped stitch over them, leaving but 1 stitch.
A slipped stitch should always be taken off
the purl way.
[2]
To purl, is to put the pin the contrary way to
knitting plain; in knitting, the pin is put up the stitch, in purling it
is put down.
When this mark (*) occurs in a row, the stitches
before it are not to be repeated in the row, being merely the edge
stitches to prevent the work from decreasing; thus, when knit 3 together
is in a row, the row generally begins with knit 2 together, and ends the
same.
The stitch over in many of the patterns, is
always knitted as the 1st stitch, as many patterns end with make 1, it
could not be done without this stitch.
Many ladies in working a pattern, copy on cards each
row separately; this prevents confusing one row with another.
The stitches between the mark, thus (knit 2 together
3 times) are worked, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together;
this prevents useless repetition.
The pins and meshes are all
gauged by the standard or wire-drawer’sgauge.
To raise stitches—Put the pin in the selvedge
or side of the knitting, put the wool round the pin as in knitting, and
bring it through, so as to form a stitch.
To make a stitch—Bring the wool forward
between the needles.
[3]
KNITTING.
Manchette or
Undersleeves.
In 2 colors of Berlin wool.
Pins 19, 17, 11, 1 pair of each, with the colored
wool cast on with 19 pins, 66 stitches.
1st row—Purl 1, knit 1.
2nd row—Knit 1, purl 1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, making in all 10 rows, then join on
the white wool, and with No. 11 pins, knit 1 plain row.
12th row—Make 1, knit 2 together.
Repeat the last 2 rows 11 times more, making in all 24 of white; then
the color, with No. 17 pins, knit the first 10 rows, join on white, with
No. 11 pins, knit the 24 rows of white as before; then with colored
wool, No. 17 pins, knit the first 10 rows[4]
and cast off; finish at the commencement with vandyke edge as follows.
Vandyke Edging.
Pins No. 11, white wool, cast on 6 stitches.
1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2
together.
2nd row—Make 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4.
3rd row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.
4th row—Plain.
5th row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2
together, make 2, knit 2 together.
6th row—Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4.
7th row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6.
8th row—Cast off all but 6 stitches, knit them plain, and commence at
1st row.
For each sleeve 10 Vandykes are required.
To make 2 stitches is to put the wool twice round the pin.
[5]
Taie D’Oreiller.
In Shetland Wool.
This pillow is lined with pink or blue satin.
Pins 8, cast on 89 stitches, or 12 for each
pattern, and 1 over.
1st row—Knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat
from mark; at the end of this row, make 1, knit 2 together.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5,
make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together,[6]
make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make
1.
8th row—Purl.
9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 3
together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.
10th row—Purl.
11th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together,
make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
12th row—Purl.
Work until square, and finish with a vandyke edge in the same wool,
and No. 10 pins.
The Davidoff Cap.
Border white with black spots, middle violet or
scarlet, pins No. 8, Berlin wool, cast on 116 stitches.
With white knit 4 rows plain.
5th row—Black and white, knit 1 black stitch and 3 white.
[7]6th
row—3 white, bring the white forward, pass the black to the back, knit
1, bring the black forward, pass the white to the back, repeat, knit 4
rows plain of white.
11th row—Black and white, knit 2 white, and repeat the 5th row.
12th row—1 white, bring the wool forward, pass the black to the back,
knit 1, bring the black forward, pass the white to the back, and repeat
the 6th row; repeat from 1st row once more; this finishes the border.
With violet wool begin at the other end of the pins.
1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together.
2nd and 3rd rows—Plain.
4th row—Purl.
Repeat these 4 rows, knitting 2 together at the beginning of every
row, 12 times; cast off. With white wool, raise 120 stitches round the
violet, to form the border at the back, and knit the same as the first
pattern.
Cast off, and finish with ribbon, or cord, and tassels to match.
[8]
Set of
Twelve D’Oyleys,
These patterns are suited for Anti-Macassars,
Bread D’Oyleys, Shawls,& c.
Pins No. 18, Cotton No. 14.
ROSETTE PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1
at the end.
1st row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1, repeat, at end of row knit 1 more.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2
together.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together,
make 1.
8th row—Purl.
9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 1.
[9]10th
row—Purl.
11th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together,
repeat from mark; at the end of the row make 1, knit 2 together.
12th row—Purl
PIQUE PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1
over.
1st row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1, at the end of row knit 1.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2
together.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit
1.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at
end of row make 1, knit 2 together.
8th row—Purl.
[10]
CHENEE PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1
over.
1st row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, at end of row knit 1.
2nd row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together.
3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together.
4th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together,
at the end of row make 1, knit 2 together.
5th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1.
6th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together,
make 1.
7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1.
8th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1.
[11]
EGLANTIER
PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1
over.
1st row—Knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2,
knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of these rows knit 2 together.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1,
knit 3 together, repeat from mark.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together,
repeat from mark.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1.
8th row—Purl.
9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit
1.
10th row—Purl.
11th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.
12th row—Purl.
[12]
TABLETTE
PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1
over.
1st row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together,
repeat from mark, at end of row make 1, knit 2 together.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1.
4th row—Plain; repeat the 2 last rows twice more, in all 6 rows.
9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1.
10th row—Plain.
11th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together.
12th row—Plain.
Repeat the 2 last rows twice more, and commence at 1st row.
PLUME PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1
over.
1st row—Knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2,
knit 3 together,[13]
repeat from mark; at the end of the row knit 2 together.
2nd row—Purl; repeat these 2 rows twice more.
7th row—Knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1,
knit 3 together; repeat from mark.
8th row—Purl.
9th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together.
10th, 11th, and 12th rows—Plain.
13th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1.
14th row—Purl; repeat the 2 last rows twice more.
19th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1,
knit 1.
20th row—Purl.
21st row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.
22nd, 23rd, and 24th rows—Plain.
MIMOSA PATTERN.
Cast on 72 stitches, or 14 for each pattern, and 2
over.
1st row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 6,[14]
purl 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1; at the end of row purl 2.
2nd row—Knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 7; at end of row knit 2.
3rd row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 4, purl 2, knit 1, make 1, knit
1, make 1, knit 1.
4th row—Knit 2, purl 5.
5th row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit
1, make 1, knit 2.
6th row—Knit 2, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3.
7th row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make
1, knit 3.
8th row—Knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1.
9th row—Purl 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit
6.
10th row—Knit 2, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3.
11th row—Purl 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl 2, knit
3 together, knit 4.
12th row—Knit 2, purl 5.
13th row—Purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit
3 together, knit 2.
14th row—Knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 7.
[15]15th
row—Purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl 2, knit 3
together.
16th row—Knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9.
LATTICE PATTERN.
Cast on 72 stitches, or 8 for each pattern.
1st row—Knit 1, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 3.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 2.
4th row—Plain.
5th row—Knit 3, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 1.
6th row—Plain.
7th row—Knit 4, (make 1, knit 2 together twice.)
8th row—Plain.
9th row—Knit 2, (knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 2.
10th row—Plain.
11th row—Knit 1, (knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 3.
12th row—Plain.
[16]13th
row—(Knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 4.
14th row—Plain.
LADY
BRUCE’S PATTERN.
Cast on 74 stitches, or 10 for each pattern, and 4
over.
1st row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1; at end of row knit 4, beside
the pattern.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2
together, make 1, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 4.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at end of row instead of
knitting 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 2 together,[17]
make 1, knit 1; at end of row knit 2 together, knit 2.
8th row—Purl.
9th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2; at end of row knit 1, make 1,
knit 2 together, knit 1.
10th row—Purl.
11th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 3; at end of row knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.
12th row—Purl.
FESTOON PATTERN.
Cast on 72 stitches, or 12 for each pattern.
1st row—Purl 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 1, 3 times,)
make 1, (knit 2 together twice.)
2nd row—Purl 11, knit 1.
TARGET PATTERN.
Cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1
over.
1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1; at end of
row knit 1 plain.
[18]2nd
row—Plain.
3rd row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together;
repeat from mark at end of row, make 1, knit 2
together.
4th row—Plain.
ARABESQUE
PATTERN.
Cast on 69 stitches, or
13 for each pattern, and 4 over.
1st row—knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 3
together, knit 3, make 1; knit the last 4 stitches the same as 1st 4
every row.
2nd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, make 1, purl 2, purl
3 together, purl 2, make 1, purl 1.
3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit
3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2.
4th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, make 1, purl 3
together, make 1, purl 3.
Finish them with fringe or scollop edging.
[19]
Knitted Purse.
Pins No. 18, coarse netting silk No. 6, steel
beads, thread the beads on the silk, cast on 61 stitches.
1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 1 plain.
2nd row—Make 1, slip 2 beads down close to the pin, knit 2 together;
at end of row knit 1 plain.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 8 inches cast off, and sew up
2-3/4 inches on each side, leaving 2-1/2 inches for the opening.
The long bead tassels suit this purse
best.
Anti-Macassar
Pins No. 12, cotton No. 12, cast on 118 stitches,
or 19 for each pattern.
1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2
together, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2[20]together,
purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1; at the end of every row knit 2,
make 1, knit 2 together.
2nd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit
1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3.
3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1,
(knit 2 together, purl 1, 3 times,) knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1,
make 1.
4th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit
1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4.
5th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit
3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1.
6th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6.
7th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit
3 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1.
8th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 15; finish with fringe.
[21]
Shetland Shawl.
This shawl may be worked with a colored border.
Diamond border and leaf pattern middle. Pins No.
6, cast on 336 stitches.
BORDER.
1st row—Knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 6.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Knit 4, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 5.
4th row—Plain.
5th row—Knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.
6th row—Plain.
7th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 3.
8th row—Plain.
9th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 3,[22]
make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2.
10th row—Plain.
11th row—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit
1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
12th row—Plain.
13th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make
1, knit 3.
14th row—Plain.
15th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3
together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4.
16th row—Plain.
17th row—Knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 5.
18th row—Plain.
19th row—Knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 6.
[23]20th
row—Plain.
21st row—Knit 6, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 7.
22nd row—Plain.
Repeat this pattern once more, then with a needle and thread, take 32
stitches off the pin; these stitches are to be left for the side border.
With the white wool knit 272 stitches plain, leaving 32 stitches for the
other side; fasten them, and commence the
MIDDLE.
1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, turn the slipped stitch over the knitted 1,
knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Slip 1, knit 1, turn the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, make
1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 1, knit 2 together.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Slip 1, knit 1, turn over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together.
[24]6th
row—Purl.
7th row—Knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2
together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together;
repeat from mark.
8th row—Purl.
9th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2
together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1.
10th row—Purl.
11th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2
together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 1.
12th row—Purl.
13th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together,
slip 1, knit 1, turn over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
14th row—Purl.
15th row—Knit 2 together, knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,)
make 1, knit 3.
16th row—Purl.
Repeat this pattern until the middle is square; then knit the sides
the same as the[25]
first pattern, until the same length as the middle, sew them to it, and
put all the stitches on 1 pin; then knit the border the same as
commencement. Finish with the following fringe.
Vandyke fringe for Shetland Shawl.
Pins No. 9, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 1.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 2.
4th row—Plain.
5th row—Make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 3.
6th row—Plain.
Repeat the 2 last rows until there are 9 plain stitches.
19th row—Knit 2 together, make 1, 5 times, knit 2 together, knit 8.
20th row—Plain.
[26]21st
row—Knit 2 together, make 1, 5 times, knit 2 together, knit 7.
22nd row—Plain.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 11 on the pin, then repeat from
1st row; when sufficient is made in the plain row, cast off 7 stitches,
leaving 4 to be pulled out for the fringe.
Turkish Pattern for a Muff.
Double Berlin wool, 2 colors, black and gold.
Pins No. 11, cast on 28 stitches on each of 3
pins.
1st round—Gold color, leaving the wool in front of pin, slip 1, pass
the wool round the pin so as to bring it in front, purl 2 together.
2nd round—Black, knit 1, (this is a black stitch,) slip 1, (a gold
loop,) knit 1.
3rd round—Same as 2nd; at the end of this round, take the last stitch
off the right hand pin, and put it on the left; repeat from 1st round.
[27]
Pelerine.
Double Berlin wool, scarlet or blue middle, white
and black border, in imitation of Minerva, pins No. 6, cast on 8
stitches with scarlet.
1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2, repeat from mark.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn
the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, (make 1, knit 2 twice.)
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2; these are the edge stitches,
and therefore not repeated in the row. Make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn the
slipped stitch over, and repeat until the last 4 stitches; then make 1,
knit 2 twice.
Repeat the last 2 rows, until there are 120 stitches on the pin, knit
a purl row, next row knit the edge stitches and 15 patterns, (or 50
stitches); cast off 24 stitches, and, with another pin, finish the row.
This finishes the back.
[28]The
ends are then decreased in the following manner:
The wool is now at the left side, leave the 50 stitches on the other
pin, and work the other 50, thus:
1st row—Purl, at the end of row purl 2 together.
2nd row—Slip 1, knit 2, turn over, repeat the pattern to the end.
3rd row—As 1st.
4th row—The same as 2nd; at the end make 1, knit 1.
Repeat these 4 rows until there are but 3 stitches, cast off, and
commence the other side.
1st row—Purl 2 together, purl the rest.
2nd row—Commence with pattern.
3rd row—Same as first.
4th row—Knit 2 together, and repeat pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows until finished.
For the border, white wool, raise 180 stitches from the outside
selvedge.
1st row—Make 1, purl 2, repeat.
2nd row—Pattern.
3rd row—Purl.
[29]4th
row—Pattern.
5th row—Purl.
6th row—Pattern.
7th row—Make 1, purl 6.
8th row—Make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn over, make 1, slip 1, knit 3,
turn over, repeat.
9th row—Purl.
10th row—Same as 8th.
11th row—Purl, cast off.
Raise 120 stitches, with white, on the wrong side, round the neck,
and work as the white border. For the tufts, cut black wool in pieces of
1-1/2 inch, take 3 pieces, and sew them alternately on the border.
Plaid Foot Muff.
Scarlet, dark blue, and green 4-thread fleecy.
Pins No. 8, cast on 108 stitches in scarlet.
1st row—Plain.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Green, purl.
4th row—Blue, slip 2, knit 4.
[30]5th
row—Blue, purl 4, slip 2.
6th row—Blue, slip 2, purl 4.
7th row—Blue, purl 4, slip 2.
8th row—Green, plain.
9th row—Scarlet, purl.
10th row—Scarlet, purl.
11th row—Scarlet, plain.
12th row—Green, purl.
13th row—Blue, knit 3, slip 2, knit 1.
14th row—Blue, purl 1, slip 2, purl 3.
15th row—Same as 13th.
16th row—Same as 14th.
17th row—Green, plain.
18th row—Scarlet, plain.
Repeat until square, cast off. For the side, cast on 24 stitches, and
knit sufficient to go round 3 sides of the square.
FOR THE LINING.
With white wool, cast 102 stitches; make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together,
repeat until square; work 2 pieces. Cut 2 pieces of mill board the size
of the square, and 1 for the side; stretch the work on 1, and cover the
other with cloth, stuffed with fine combed wool, and finish with roleau
and cord.
[31]
Driving Mitts.
4 Pins No. 15, 4-thread fleecy, cast on 18
stitches on each of 2 pins, and 20 on the 3rd.
1st round—Knit 2, purl 2, for 20 rounds.
21st round—Plain.
22nd round—Purl 1, knit 3.
23rd round—Plain.
24th round—Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.
The last 4 rounds form the pattern, and are worked throughout the
mitts.
25th round—Purl 1, make 1, knit 2, make 1, purl 1, this is for the
thumb; knit the rest of round plain.
Knit 4 rounds, (or 1 pattern,) purling the 1st and 6th stitches.
30th round—Purl 1, make 1, knit 4, make 1, purl 1, knit the rest to
pattern.
Knit 3 rounds, and continue increasing for the thumb, every 4th round
working the pattern on the thumb; continue until there are 14 stitches
on the thumb, knit 2 patterns without increasing; then leave the 14
stitches, or fasten them with a needle and thread;[32]
cast on 7 stitches, and knit 5 patterns, then purl 2, knit 2 for 12
rounds, cast off, put the 14 stitches on 2 pins, take up the 7 stitches,
cast on, and knit 5 rounds of pattern, purl 2, knit 2 for 12 rounds,
cast off.
Knit the other mitt exactly the same.
Point Lace Edging.
Pins No. 19, boar’s head cotton 34, cast on 15
stitches.
1st row—Knit 2, make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 1, make
1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3.
2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit
3 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1,
knit 2 together.
3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit
2, make 1, knit 4.
4th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2,[33]
(make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1,
twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.
5th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit
2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2.
6th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, (make 1, knit 3, make 1,
knit 3 together, twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together.
7th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, (knit 2 together, make 1,
knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 2.
8th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, (knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.
9th row—Same as 7th row.
10th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 3 together,
make 1, knit 3, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together.
[34]11th
row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1,
knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 2 together, knit 2.
12th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together.
13th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, (make 1, knit 2 together, knit
2, twice.)
14th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 3 together,
make 1, knit 3, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together.
15th row—Knit 2, make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 1,
make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 3.
16th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit
2, make 1, knit 2 together.
[35]
Scollop Edging.
Pins No. 18, boar’s head cotton No. 24, cast on 8
stitches.
1st row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.
2nd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
3rd row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.
4th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit
2 together, knit 1.
5th row—The same as 1st row, knitting 1 plain stitch more.
6th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit
2 together, knit 1.
7th row—The same as 5th.
8th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 2, make
1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
9th row—Same as 5th.
10th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together[36]
twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
11th row—Same as 5th.
12th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 2,
make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
13th row—Same as 5th.
14th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 3,
make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
15th row—Same as 11th.
16th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,)
knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
17th row—Same as 9th.
18th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, twice,)
knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
19th row—Same as 7th.
20th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, twice,)
knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
21st row—Same as 5th.
22nd row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2,
make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
[37]23rd
row—Same as 3rd.
24th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1.
Diamond Edging.
Pins No. 17, boar’s head cotton No. 20, cast on 7
stitches.
1st row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2.
4th row—Plain.
5th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2.
6th row—Plain.
7th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1,
knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
8th row—Plain.
9th row—(Make 1, knit 3 together, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1.
[38]10th
row—Plain.
11th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1.
12th row—Plain.
Treble
Diamond Edging.
Cast on 7 stitches, Pins No. 17, cotton No. 20.
1st row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2
together, knit 1.
2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain.
3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2.
4th row—Same as 2nd.
5th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1,
knit 1, make 1, knit 2.
6th row—Same as 2nd.
7th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make
1, knit 2.
8th row—Same as 2nd.
9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1,[39]
knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.
10th row—Same as 2nd.
11th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1,
knit 3 together, knit 2 together.
12th row—Same as 2nd.
Fringe for
D’Oyleys.
Pins No. 19, double cotton, cast on 8 stitches.
1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.
All the rows are the same; when finished, cast off 5 stitches,
leaving 3 to be pulled out for the fringe.
Travelling Cap.
2 Colors, double Berlin wool, Pins No. 8, cast on
121 stitches.
1st row—Colored, purl.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Purl.
[40]4th
row—White, purl.
5th row—Make 1, knit 2 together.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
13th row—Colored, purl.
14th row—Purl.
15th row—Plain.
16th row—White, purl.
17th row—Knit 2 together, make 1.
Repeat the 2 last rows 3 times more; work from 1st row once more;
there will now be 4 ribs of colored: this is for the front. Commence at
the other end of the pin, and knit 4 colored ribs; this will make the
pattern come on the wrong side. Knit 96 stitches, leaving 25 on the pin,
turn back, knit 71, turn back, leaving 25 on the other side; knit 6 ribs
of 71 stitches, then put all the stitches on 1 pin, and knit 4 ribs all
along; cast off, draw up the ends, and finish with cord and tassel.
Shetland Scarf.
Pins No. 7, cast on 145 stitches.
Work the rosette, eglantier, or lattice pattern,[41]
as in D’Oyleys, and finish with same fringe.
The first and last quarter of a yard looks well in 6 shades of wool.
Petit Point Quilt.
Or Table Cover.
Pins No. 5, double Berlin wool, shaded and plain
white. With the white cast on 116 stitches for each yard; if larger, any
even number of stitches.
1st row—Shaded wool, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip 1, pass the
wool back.
2nd row—Purl 1, pass the wool back, slip 1, bring the wool forward.
3rd row—White, same as 1st row.
4th row—White, same as 2nd row.
Repeat these 4 rows until the required length, cast off, and finish
with the following
[42]
Border for Quilt.
Measure the 4 sides of the work; cast on with
white wool 188 stitches for each yard, and 18 for every 4 inches more.
1st row—Purl.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Shaded wool, (knit 2 together, 3 times,) (make 1, knit 1, 5
times,) make 1, (knit 2 together, 3 times,) knit 1.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Same as 3rd.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Same as 3rd.
8th row—White, purl.
Repeat from 1st row 4 times, knit 1 row, purl 1 row; cast off, and
sew on to quilt.
Baby’s
Socks.
Pins No. 17, Berlin wool, pink and white. With
pink cast on 34 stitches.
Knit 6 rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row; then 10
rows, making[43]
a stitch every other row; this increase is for the toe. Knit 6 rows
plain, knit 13 stitches at the toe, turn back, and knit 18 rows of 13
stitches; leave them on the pin, and with a third pin, and white wool,
commence at the other side. Knit a plain row, turn back, make 1, knit 2
together, to the end. Next row, plain; turn back, make 1, knit 2
together, for 16 stitches, leaving 16 on the pin; turn back, make 1,
knit 2 together to the end, and repeat the 2 last rows 16 times. Cast on
16 stitches; next row make 1, knit 2 together, to the end, or 32
stitches; 1 plain row; then with the colored wool that was left at the
13 stitches knit a plain row on, the 32 stitches of white; knit 6 rows
plain; then 10 rows, knitting 2 together every other row at the toe; and
6 rows, knitting 2 together at the beginning of every row: cast off. For
the leg, white wool raise 16 stitches from the colored part, and 12 from
the white piece across; knit the 16 stitches left on the pin; there will
now be 44 stitches on the pin. Pattern: make 1, knit 2 together; 3 rows
plain; repeat for 8 patterns, and cast off. Then, with colored wool,
cast on 9[44]
stitches, knit 5 rows, and cast off; draw the slanting part together,
and sew this piece in.
Square
Shawl.
Pins No. 6, double Berlin or 4-thread fleecy, cast
on 325 stitches.
1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together,
make 1, knit 1; at the end of row knit 1 plain.
2nd row—Purl.
3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together,
make 1, knit 2.
4th row—Purl.
5th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2
together.
6th row—Purl.
7th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together,
knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of row,
make 1, knit 2 together.
8th row—Purl.
Work until square.
[45]
BORDER.
In two Colors.
Cast on 359 stitches.
With white, or any color that accords well with the middle, knit 6
rows plain, knitting 2 together at the end of each row.
7th row—Same color as middle, knit 4, slip 2; at the end of these
rows knit 2 together.
8th row—Purl 4, slip 2.
9th row—Knit 3, slip 2, knit 1.
10th row—Purl 3, slip 2, purl 1.
Then with white 6 rows plain, knitting 2 together at the end.
17th row—With the color, knit 2, slip 2, knit 2; at the end of these
rows knit 2 together.
18th row—Purl 3, slip 2, purl 1.
19th row—Knit 1, slip 2, knit 3.
20th row—Purl 2, slip 2, purl 2.
White; knit 6 rows, knitting 2 together at the end.
27th row—Slip 2, knit 4.
28th row—Purl 1, slip 2, purl 3.
[46]29th
row—Knit 1, * knit 4, slip 2; repeat from mark.
30th row—Slip 2, purl 4.
With white knit 6 rows, cast off.
Work 4 pieces the same, sew them on to the shawl, and finish with a
knotted fringe.
Polka.
For a Child.
Pins No. 9, double Berlin wool, or 4-thread
fleecy, cast on 252 stitches with white.
1st row—Make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together; this is the stitch
throughout the Polka.
Knit 32 rows, join on the color, and knit 16 rows; then knit 51
stitches, knit 3 together, work on with pattern for 144 stitches, knit 3
together, finish the row with pattern. Next row knit 51 stitches, make
1, slip 1, knit 3 together, knit 145 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3
together, finish the row with pattern. Knit 24 rows. Knit 51 stitches,
and knit 3 together, knit 142 stitches of[47]
pattern, knit 3 together; finish the row with pattern. Next row knit 51
stitches of pattern, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, knit 139 stitches
of pattern, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together; finish with pattern. Knit
24 rows; decrease as above, knitting 6 less in the middle. Knit 24 rows;
decrease again. Knit 10 rows. Knit 51 stitches of pattern, then knit 1,
knit 2 together, to within 51 stitches of the end; finish with pattern.
Next row, after knitting the 51 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3
together, within 51; there will now be 168 stitches on the pin. Knit 36
rows. Knit the 51 stitches, leave them, and with another pin, cast off 9
stitches for the arm hole, knit 48 stitches of pattern, cast off 9
stitches; leave the fronts on the pins, and knit 40 rows; then knit 3
together, finish the row in pattern. At the end of the next row, knit 3
together. Knit 3 rows. Knit 3 together at the end of the next row. Knit
12 rows. Knit 3 together at the end. Knit 12 rows. Knit 3 together. Cast
off the back.
For the fronts, knit 40 rows, knit 3 together at the arm hole; at the
end of next[48]
row, knit 3 together. Knit 8 rows, decrease again, knit 8 rows,
decrease, knit 8 rows, decrease, knit 2 rows, decrease as before; cast
off 6 stitches at the front, decrease at the arm hole. Next row, cast
off 3 stitches, decrease at the arm hole, and cast off. Knit the other
front the same.
SLEEVE.
Cast on 72 stitches.
Knit 70 rows of pattern.
71st row—Knit 54 stitches, turn back.
72nd row—Knit to the end.
73rd row—Knit 51 stitches, turn back.
74th row—Knit to the end.
75th row—Knit 42 stitches, turn, knit to the end.
77th row—Knit 36 stitches, turn, and knit to the end.
79th row—Knit 33 stitches, turn, and knit to the end.
81st row—Knit 30 stitches, turn, and knit to the end.
Then knit 22 rows all along; cast off.
[49]
COLLAR.
Cast on 144 stitches.
With white, knit 24 rows; join on the color, knit 6 rows.
31st row—Knit 129 stitches, turn back, and knit to within 15 stitches
of the other end; turn back, knit till within 21. Next row, the same;
turn back, knit till within 30. Next row, the same, knit till within 33.
Next row, the same, knit till within 36. Cast off.
For the side border and cuffs, cast on 15 stitches with white, and
knit the length of the color.
Child’s
Frock.
For a child 3 or 4 years of age.
Pins No. 5, Berlin wool, 6 shades of each color,
and white. With the darkest shade, cast on 348 stitches.
Pattern—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4. All the rows are the same.
[50]Knit
2 rows of each shade, and 12 of white; 12 shaded, 12 white, 12 shaded;
knit the rest white until long enough.
BODY.
Cast on 90 stitches.
With the 6th shade, knit the pattern to the lightest shade, and 4
rows of white; then knit 15 stitches of pattern, cast off 12 stitches.
With another pin knit 36 stitches, turn back, and knit 8 rows of 36
stitches; this is for the front.
For the back: on the side where the stitches were cast off, knit 8
rows of white; on the other side, cast off 12 stitches, knit 8 rows; put
all the stitches on 1 pin again, and with the lightest shade, work to
the darkest.
FOR THE SLEEVES.
Cast on 36 stitches with the darkest shade.
Knit to the lightest, then 16 of white; cast off. Sew the skirt to a
band, and round the neck and sleeves with a vandyke edging as 2nd
receipt.
[51]
Carriage Mat.
No. 4 pins, 8-thread fleecy, or 4-thread doubled,
border white with black spots, and scarlet or orange middle. With the
white cast 73 stitches; cut a skein of white and black in pieces of 6
inches.
1st row—Knit 1, take 2 pieces of the cut wool, white, put them on the
left pin, and cross them, so as to bring 1 end in front, and 1 at the
back; then with the right hand pin, knit the loop and a stitch together,
bring the end at the back forward between the pins.
2nd row—Plain.
3rd row—Slip the 1st stitch, and repeat the 1st row.
4th row—Plain.
5th row—The same as the 1st row, putting on 1 black loop and 6 white,
alternately.
6th row—Plain.
Repeat from 1st row once more; in the 5th row, put on 2 white loops
before commencing the pattern, to bring the black spots in a diamond.
[52]Then
commence the middle; knit in 7 loops of white, 22 of color, and 7 of
white. Repeat until the middle is square, and knit the white to
correspond with the beginning.
When finished, it must be sent to be sheared and combed.
Réseau
Quilt.
Pins No. 9, 6-thread fleecy, pink and white; cast
on 192 stitches with white.
1st row—Pink, having wool in front, slip 1, make 1, by turning the
wool round the pin, purl 2 together.
2nd row—With white, at other end of pin, knit 1, slip 1, (this is a
pink loop,) knit 1.
3rd row—Slip 1, purl 2.
4th row—With pink, at the other end, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together.
5th row—White, knit 2, slip 1.
6th row—Slip 1, purl 2.
Repeat from 1st row. Finish with
[53]
KNITTED FRINGE.
Cast on 12 stitches, with doubled wool.
1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2; all the rows are the same.
Knit 12 rows of each color; when finished cast off 7 stitches,
leaving 5 to be pulled out for the fringe.
[54]
[55
[59]
TERMS
USED IN CROCHET.
To make a chain—Make a loop, and draw the wool
through it.
To commence a row—Put the needle in the side
of the 1st stitch, bring the wool through, and work a chain stitch.
After the 1st row, there is always a stitch at the side.
Miss a stitch—Pass over 1 of the row before.
To increase—Work 2 stitches in 1.
To decrease—Miss a stitch.
In crochet that is worked square, at the end of a
row, cut the wool off, and draw it through to fasten it; begin at the
other end.
In the chain—Put the needle through the loop
formed by the chain stitches, in the row before, instead of in a stitch.
[56]
[57]
CROCHET.
Shepherd or Single Crochet.
This stitch is usually worked round, for Cuffs,
Muffatees, Boots, &c.& c.
Make a chain, join it, keep the loop on the needle.
1st round—Put the needle in the 1st chain stitch, draw the wool
through; there will now be 2 loops on the needle; draw the last loop
through the 1st.
In the 2nd and following rounds, take the 1st part of the chain on
the needle.
Plain,
Double, or French Crochet.
Make a chain. After commencing the row, put the needle in a stitch of
the chain,[58]
draw the wool through; there will be 2 loops on the needle. Take the
wool on the needle again, and draw it through the 2 loops. At the end,
cut the wool off, draw it through, and begin at the other end.
Treble Crochet.
Make a chain. After commencing the row, put the wool round the
needle, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through;
there will be 3 loops on the needle. Take the wool on the needle again,
draw it through 2 of the loops; take up the wool again, and draw it
through the 2. This is 1 stitch.
Crochet.
In two colors.
This is always worked in plain crochet. Lay the color not wanted
along, and work[59]
over it. In changing the color, draw it through before finishing the
stitch, when there are 2 loops on the needle.
Six Crochet
D’Oyleys, Round.
These D’Oyleys are very beautiful.
Boar’s head cotton, No. 16, or Berlin wool, in
plain, open, and treble Crochet.
DIAMOND PATTERN.
Make a chain of 8 stitches, and join it.
1st round—1 treble 3 chain stitch in
every chain stitch.
2nd round—3 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.
3rd round—5 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.
4th round—7 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.
5th round—9 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.
6th round—Miss 2, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain.
7th round—Miss 2, 5 treble, 3 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 3 chain.
8th round—Miss 3, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, 5 treble, 3 chain.
[60]9th
round—Miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1
treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 7 treble, 2 chain.
10th round—3 treble, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 5
treble, 2 chain, miss 2.
11th round—5 treble, 2 chain, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2
chain, miss 2.
12th round—7 treble, 2 chain, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 3
chain, miss 2.
DAMIER PATTERN.
Make a chain of 9 stitches.
1st round—2 plain in every stitch.
2nd round—3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain.
3rd round—3 chain, miss 2, 1 plain.
4th round—3 chain, miss 3, 3 plain in 1 of the round before.
5th round—3 chain, miss 3, 2 plain in 1, 2 plain.
6th round—4 chain, miss 3, 2 plain in 1, 3 plain.
[61]7th
round—4 chain, miss 4, 2 plain in 1, 4 plain.
8th round—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1.
9th round—8 chain, 3 plain, miss 4.
10th round—Plain.
11th round—6 chain, miss 9, 2 plain; the 2 plain are in the middle of
the 8 chain in the 9th round.
12th round—10 plain, and 2 in the 11th stitch.
13th round—3 treble, 3 chain, miss 2.
14th round—4 chain, miss 3, 3 treble.
15th round—4 treble, miss 3, 4 chain.
TRELLIS PATTERN.
A chain of 12 stitches.
1st round—3 chain, and 1 plain in every stitch.
2nd round—3 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle of the 3
chain, in the last round.
3rd round—5 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle.
4th round—Same as 3rd.
[62]5th
round—6 chain, 1 plain.
6th round—Treble.
7th round—2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble.
8th round—2 treble in 1, miss 3, 2 chain; the 2 chain over the 2 in
last row.
9th round—Same as 8th.
10th round—2 treble in 1, miss 3, 3 chain.
11th round—2 treble, miss 3, 4 chain.
12th round—Same as 6th.
FILET PATTERN.
Chain of 7 stitches.
1st round—9 chain, 1 plain in every stitch.
2nd round—7 plain, miss 3.
3rd round—6 chain, miss 5, 2 plain; the 2 plain in the middle of the
chain in 1st round.
4th round—3 plain, and 2 plain in the 4th stitch.
5th round—3 plain, 6 chain, miss 1.
6th round—Plain.
7th round—5 chain, miss 7, 2 plain in the chain of last round.
8th round—Plain.
[63]9th
round—5 chain, miss 2, 1 plain.
10th round—5 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in chain of last round.
11th round—Same as 10th.
12th round—Same as 10th.
13th round—5 plain, miss 1.
14th round—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 1.
SCOLLOP PATTERN.
Make a chain of 9 stitches.
1st round—1 treble, 1 chain, in every stitch.
2nd round—2 treble, putting the needle through the chain of round
before, 2 chain.
3rd round—3 treble in the chain of last round, 3 chain.
4th round—5 treble in the chain, 2 chain.
5th round—7 treble in the chain, 1 chain.
6th round—10 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the middle of the 7 treble in
last round.
7th round—1 treble, 1 chain, in every stitch for 8 stitches, miss 3.
[64]8th
and 9th rounds—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
10th round—3 plain, 6 chain, miss 5.
11th round—1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1, 6 treble.
12th round—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
SEME PATTERN.
Make a chain of 9 stitches.
1st round—2 plain in every stitch.
2nd round—3 chain, 2 treble.
3rd round—4 chain, 2 treble in 1, miss 4.
4th round—2 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 2.
5th round—2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble.
6th round—2 treble in 1, 3 chain, miss 3.
7th round—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
8th round—2 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 3.
9th round—3 treble in 1, 1 chain, miss 3.
10th round—3 treble in 1, 2 chain,
miss 3.
11th round—3 treble in 1, 3 chain, miss 4; the treble stitches in the
chain of the last round.
[65]
Fringe for
D’Oyleys.
Cut a skein of cotton in pieces of 3 inches.
Put the needle in a stitch of the work, take 2 pieces of the cotton,
fold them on the needle, draw them through, and draw the ends through
the loop, pull it tight.
Knitting cotton, No. 12, is the best for the fringe.
Scollop for
D’Oyleys.
To be worked on the D’Oyleys.
1st round—7 chain, miss 3, 5 plain.
2nd round—1 treble, 1 chain for 7 stitches, 1 chain, miss 2, 1 plain,
2 chain, miss 2.
Wheel
Pattern Insertion.
Boar’s head cotton No. 20, fine steel needle, make
a chain of 500 stitches for each yard.
1st round—5 treble stitches in 1, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 1 chain,
miss 1.
[66]2nd
round—Turn the work so as to work in the chain on the other side; work
the same as 1st row, the 5 treble in the same stitch as the 5 treble on
the other side.
Ecaille Pattern
Edging.
Boar’s head cotton No. 34, fine steel needle, make
a chain of 500 stitches for each yard.
1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
2nd row—3 chain, miss 1, 5 plain.
3rd row—6 chain, miss 5, (this over the 3 chain in the last row,) 3
plain, in the middle of the 5 plain in last row.
4th row—8 chain, miss 8, 1 plain in the middle of the 3 plain in the
last row.
Open
Vandyke Edging.
Chain and cotton as last receipt.
1st row—Treble.
2nd row—The same.
[67]3rd
row—1 plain, 4 chain, miss 1.
4th row—1 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitches are always in the middle
of the chain in last row; 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1
plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain; turn back, so as to work on the 4th
row.
5th row—1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain,
miss 5, 1 plain; turn back.
6th row—1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain. Work 6
shepherd’s stitches down the side of vandyke, so as to bring the thread
to the 3rd row: this forms 1 vandyke.
Repeat from 4th row.
Close
Vandyke Edging.
Commence as last receipt.
1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
2nd row—2 chain, 5 treble; turn back, so as to work on 2nd row.
3rd row—2 chain, miss 1, 3 treble, turn back.
4th row—2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain;[68]
work 6 shepherd stitches to bring the cotton to the 2nd row. Commence
from 2nd row. When all the vandykes are worked, finish with a row of 3
chain, miss 2, 3 plain, all round them.
Double Scallop Edging.
Commence as before.
1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
2nd row—3 chain, miss 3, 3 treble.
3rd row—3 plain, 7 chain, miss 3.
4th row—1 chain, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1, (1 chain, 1 plain, 7
times.)
5th row—The same as 3rd, except the 3 plain stitches are to be worked
in the middle of the last scollop.
6th row—Same as 4th.
Diamond Insertion.
1st row—Treble.
2nd row—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2.
[69]3rd
row—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble.
4th row—Same as 2nd.
5th row—Same as 1st.
Cuffs.
Diamond Pattern.
Make a chain of 85 stitches, boar’s head cotton
No. 20.
1st row—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 9 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the
end of these rows, 1 treble, 2 chain, beside the pattern. Work backwards
and forwards.
2nd row—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1
treble.
3rd row—3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 2
treble.
4th row—4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3
treble.
5th row—5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 4
treble.
6th row—Same as 4th.
[70]7th
row—Same as 3rd.
8th row—Same as 2nd.
9th row—Same as 1st.
Edging for Cuffs.
To be worked on.
1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
2nd row—Treble.
3rd row—Same as 1st.
4th row—2 treble in the chain stitch of last row, 2 chain, 2 plain in
the 2 chain of last row, 5 chain; work the same on the other side.
Work down the side of the cuff plain, working 7 chain stitches for
button holes.
Crochet Collar.
Make a chain of 120 stitches, No. 14 cotton.
1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
2nd row—2 chain, 1 plain, miss 1.
[71]3rd
row—1 plain, 3 chain; the plain stitch is always in the middle of the
chain in the row before.
Repeat the 3rd row 10 times. Then 1 row, 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 4.
Finish with a small cord and tassels.
Round Sofa Pillow.
Double Berlin wool, make a chain of 100 stitches,
work it backwards and forwards. Shaded wool, colors violet, green,
scarlet, blue, and orange.
1st row—Violet, 1 chain, 3 treble in 1, miss 3.
Work 5 rows more the same, always working the 3 treble stitches in
the chain stitch of the row before; then 6 rows of green, 6 of scarlet,
6 blue, 6 orange, and commence at 1st row.
The size must be according to the pillow it is to cover, about 16
inches.
[72]
Bead
Crochet.
Thread the beads on the silk, and pass a bead down before working the
stitch; this is always worked on the wrong side.
Handsome Bead
Purse.
With square ends, pattern No. 1, middle size
netting silk, colours ponceau white, shaded green, and No. 5 steel
beads. Make a chain of 80 stitches.
With ponceau make it round, and work 2 rounds plain; then 5 rounds of
pattern in ponceau, 5 in white, 14 in shaded green, 5 in white, 5 of
ponceau, 8 rounds plain ponceau, and 34 rows backwards and forwards, for
the opening, working 3 bead stitches at the beginning and end of every
other row; make it round again, work 3 plain rounds, repeat pattern.
Finish the ends with a fringe of steel beads.
Click to Enlarge Pattern No. 1
[73]
Bead Purse.
Pattern No. 4.
Colours white and shaded blue, gold or steel
beads, No. 5. Make a chain of 88 stitches white.
Make it round; work 2 rounds plain, and 3 rounds, putting a bead on
every stitch, shaded blue; work the star pattern; then 3 rounds in beads
with white, 6 rounds plain, and 34 rows backwards and forwards for the
opening, working 3 bead stitches at the beginning and end of every other
row; make it round, and repeat the pattern.
Finish with a fringe of beads.
Click
to Enlarge Pattern No. 4
Table
Cover.
In squares, plain crochet.
Each square is a different color in Berlin wool;
colors violet, green, scarlet, stone, blue, and orange, 6 shades of each
color and black; work 2 rounds of each shade. Make a chain of 8 stitches
with the lightest shade.
1st round—Work 2 stitches in 1.
[74]2nd
round—3 stitches in 1, 3 plain.
3rd round—3 stitches in 1, 5 plain.
4th round—2nd shade, 3 in 1, 7 plain.
5th round—3 stitches in 1, 9 plain.
6th round—3rd shade, 3 in 1, 11 plain.
7th round—3 in 1, 13 plain.
8th round—4th shade, 3 in 1, 15 plain.
9th round—3 in 1, 17 plain.
10th round—5th shade, 5 in 1, 19 plain.
11th round—3 in 1, 21 plain.
12th round—6th shade, 3 in 1, 23 plain.
13th round—3 in 1, 25 plain.
14th round—Black, 3 in 1, 27 plain.
15th round—3 in 1, 29 plain.
This finishes 1 square. Work all the colors the same; when sufficient
are made, crochet them together with black. A small pattern may also be
worked in each square.
Bell Pulls.
Pattern No. 2.
In double Berlin wool, the ground claret, 4 shades
of green, and 3 of orange; make a chain of 50 stitches for each quarter
of a yard.
1st row—Orange.
[75]2nd
row—2nd shade.
3rd row—3rd shade.
4th row—Claret.
5th row—Darkest green and claret; work the first row of pattern with
the green.
6th row—2nd shade of green and claret.
7th row—3rd shade of green and claret.
8th row—4th shade of green and 2nd shade of orange.
9th row—4th shade of green, 3rd shade of orange.
10th row—Same as 7th.
11th row—Same as 6th.
12th row—Same as 5th.
13th row—Same as 4th.
14th row—Same as 3rd.
15th row—As 2nd.
16th row—As 1st.
Click to Enlarge Pattern No. 2

Greek Cap.
Patterns Nos. 3 and 9.
Coarse Netting Silk, and Gold Twist.
Ground black, 3 shades of ponceau, 3 of green, 4
of orange; make a chain of 7 stitches with black.
1st round—2 stitches in 1.
[76]2nd
round—1 ponceau, lightest shade, 1 ponceau, 2 black in 1.
3rd round—2 ponceau in 1, 2 black.
4th round—2 ponceau in 1 ponceau, 2 black.
5th round—2 ponceau in 1, 2 ponceau, 2 black.
Repeat the 2 last rounds, working 1 ponceau more each round until
there are 102 stitches; 3 rounds of black, 4 plain, 2 in the 5th stitch;
3 rounds of gold, thus—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 black round plain,
next round black, 4 plain and 2 in 1 in the 5th stitch, then work the
pattern with black ground.
1st round—Darkest green and black.
2nd round—2nd shade of green and black.
3rd round—3rd shade of green and black.
4th round—Darkest ponceau and black.
5th round—2nd shade and black.
6th round—3rd shade and black.
7th round—Darkest blue and black.
8th round—2nd shade and black.
9th round—3rd shade and black.
10th round—Darkest orange and black.
11th round—2nd shade and black.
12th round—3rd shade and black.
[77]13th
round—4th shade and black.
14th round—Plain black.
15th round—Black, 4 plain and 2 in 1 in the 5th stitch.
This finishes the increase; it will now be 22 inches round; repeat
the gold rounds and the pattern until within 2 inches of the finish;
then work the 3 rounds of gold, 1 round of
ponceau; then pattern No. 9 in the gold on ponceau ground.
If required larger, it must be increased before the 2nd pine pattern
in the black rounds.
pattern 3 Click to enlarge
Cigar or Card
Case.
Pattern No. 4.
Middle sized silk, shaded scarlet and blue No. 6,
steel and gold beads. Make a chain of 10 stitches in scarlet.
1st round—2 stitches in 1.
2nd round—1 plain, 2 in the 2nd stitch.
3rd round—2 in the 3rd stitch, repeat the[78]
last round, working 1 stitch more until there are 128 stitches; thread
on the scarlet 3 rows of steel beads; work 3 rounds, putting a bead on
every stitch; thread the gold beads on the blue; work 1 plain round;
then commence the star pattern; after the pattern 1 plain row; thread
three rows of steel beads on the blue, and work three rounds a bead on
every stitch; then work the star pattern in scarlet and gold beads; work
another piece the same. It is then made up on a frame.
Bag.
In Treble Open Crochet.
Colors, white, blue, and gold twist.
Make a chain of 140 stitches.
Pattern, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, work 3 rounds of each color for 5
inches, and finish with cord and tassels to match.
[79]
Square Sofa
Pillow.
Pattern No. 5. Berlin wool.
Make a chain of 160 stitches, or 100 for double
Berlin wool. Colours, 4 shades of green, 4 of scarlet, 4 of stone, and
white.
1st pattern—Open crochet, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3.
1st row—Darkest green.
2nd row—3rd shade of green, working the 3 treble stitches in the 3
chain of the last row.
3rd row—2nd shade of green.
4th row—1st shade of green.
2nd pattern, No. 5.
1st row—Darkest stone and darkest scarlet.
2nd row—3rd shades of stone and scarlet.
3rd row—2nd shades of stone and scarlet.
4th row—1st shades of stone and scarlet.
5th row—White. This is the ground of the stripe.
6th row—1st shade of green and white.
[80]7th
row—2nd shade and white.
8th row—3rd shade and white.
9th row—4th shade and white.
10th row—Same as 9th.
11th row—Same as 8th.
12th row—Same as 7th.
13th row—Same as 6th.
14th row—As 5th.
15th row—As 4th.
16th row—As 3rd.
17th row—As 2nd.
18th row—As 1st.
Then work the open pattern again, and repeat until square.
Pattern 5 Click to Enlarge
Half-Square Shawl.
Plain Crochet. Double Chené wool of various colors
and black. Make a chain of 3 stitches.
1st row—Work 2 stitches in 1 at the beginning of the row; work the
rest plain at the end of the row; leave 7 inches of wool[81]
for the fringe. In commencing a row the ends must be worked under for a
few stitches.
Pattern—1 row black and 2 chené. Increase until there are 350
stitches; then loop in a fringe to correspond with the other side.
Another Shawl.
3 Shades of Violet, 3 of Stone, and White.
Increase as the last, and work 1 row of each shade.
Crochet Shoes.
Berlin wool, pattern No. 6.
The shoes must be worked from a paper pattern the size required.
Commence at the toe, and increase by working 2 stitches in 1 at the
beginning and end of the row until sufficiently deep. For the sides work
about a third of the front.
Gold color and French blue for the ground, and 3 shades of each for
the pattern.
1st row—2 stitches of blue and 2 of
gold.
[82]2nd
row—Gold.
3rd row—Gold and dark blue.
4th row—2nd shade of blue and gold.
5th row—3rd shade of blue and gold.
6th row—Gold color, repeat from 1st row.
The next pattern the same, except the ground is blue, and the spots
shades of gold.
Click to Enlarge Pattern 6
Sole for Shoes.
6 Thread Black Fleecy.
Make a chain of 8 stitches.
1st row—1 row plain. This is not repeated.
2nd row—Take both sides of the chain on the needle and work according
to shape, working it backwards and forwards.
Crochet Purse.
2nd size Netting Silk, 2 colours. No. 6 steel
beads. Make a chain of 120 stitches.
1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, pass a bead down, miss 1; work 2 rows of
each colour for 6 inches.
[83]
Shamrock Purse.
Pattern No. 8.
In close crochet, fine silk; colors, green,
violet, and white; steel and gold beads, No. 5. Make a chain of 150
stitches with white; thread the steel beads upon the white.
Work 3 rows the same as in last receipt, then with green and gold
beads, work the pattern; then 3 rows of white, with steel beads, as
before, and with violet and gold beads, work the pattern again.
Three stripes of each color form the purse.
Click to Enlarge Pattern No 8
Honeycomb Edging.
Make a chain of 480 stitches for each yard. Boar’s
head cotton No. 24.
1st row—10 chain, miss 5 (1 plain, 3 chain, miss 1, 4 times), 1
plain.
2nd row—1 treble, 1 chain in the 3 chain of the row before; repeat 6
times, 1 chain (1 plain, 3 chain, miss 4, 3 times), 1 plain, 1 chain.
3rd row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 7 times,[84]
1 chain (1 plain, 1 chain, miss 4,
twice), 1 plain, 1 chain.
4th row—1 plain and 3 treble in every treble stitch of the last row;
then 1 chain, 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 plain, 1 chain.
Anti-Macassar.
Boar’s head cotton No. 10, or knitting cotton No.
12. Make a chain of 145 stitches. Work backwards and forwards.
1st row—4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3
treble; at the end, work 1 treble, 2 chain, beside the pattern.
2nd row—3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1
treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble.
3rd row—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1
treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble.
4th row—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, (1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 3
times,) 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2.
5th row—Same as 3rd.
[85]6th
row—Same as 2nd.
7th row—Same as 1st.
Work 24 inches. Finish with double scollop edging.
Travelling Bag.
Pattern No. 7.
In double Berlin wool, 5 shades of scarlet, 4
shades of stone, 4 shades of couleur de bois, light green, black, white,
and shaded blue. Make a chain of 150 stitches.
1st row—Black and darkest bois, 2 stitches of each.
2nd row—2nd shade and black.
3rd row—3rd shade, plain.
4th row—4th shade and green, 21 stitches of green, and 3 of bois,
lightest shade.
5th row—White and 1st shade of scarlet, 21 white, and 3 scarlet.
6th row—2nd shade of scarlet, 1st shade of stone; 3 stone, 15
scarlet, 3 stone, 3 scarlet.
[86]7th
row—2nd shade of stone, 3rd shade of scarlet; same as 6th row.
8th row—3rd shade of stone, 4th shade of scarlet; same as 7th row.
9th row—4th shade of stone, 5th shade of scarlet.
10th row—Same as 9th.
Repeat the colors back again, ending with a plain row of the darkest
couleur de bois, and the 2 rows of 2 stitches; then 6 rows of shaded
blue; work until there are 18 inches.
Finish with a clasp.
Click to Enlarge
Pattern No. 7
Table
Cover.
Pattern No. 9.
Berlin wool. Make a chain of 350 stitches in
single wool, or 200 in double, for each 1/2-yard. Colors--4 shades of
crimson, green, and violet; ground--black and shaded orange.
1st row—Black.
2nd row—Lightest crimson and black.
3rd row—2nd shade crimson and black.
4th row—3rd shade and black.
[87]5th
row—4th shade and black.
6th row—Dark green and black.
7th row—2nd shade and black.
8th row—3rd shade and black.
9th row—4th shade and black.
10th row—White and black.
11th row—Lightest violet and black.
12th row—2nd shade of violet and black.
13th row—3rd shade and black.
14th row—4th shade and black.
Then 1 row of black, and 6 rows of shaded orange.

Click to Enlarge Pattern No. 9
A Chain.
Fine brown braid.
Wind the braid in 2 balls, join them together, and make a loop; then,
holding the 2 braids over the 4th finger, work a chain stitch with each
of the braids alternately, until 1 yard and a 1/4 long. Fasten it with a
steel slide.
[88]
Cap.
In Berlin wool shaded, and floss silk. Make a
chain of 120 stitches.
Pattern—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.
Work 12 rows, leaving 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every row,
to decrease it; work a row all round, and then commence the
BORDER.
1st row—Work 3 chain stitches, miss 1, 1 plain.
2nd row—The same.
3rd row—5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle of
the chain of last row.
4th row—Same as 3rd for a 3rd of the row; break the wool off.
5th row—6 chain, miss 6, 1 plain, for a 3rd of the row.
Work the other side the same; then a row of the floss silk, the same
as the 5th, all along.
Finish with a ribbon for the back and ends.
[89]
NETTING.
Anti-Macassar.
As Pattern No. 10.
Mesh No. 6, cotton No. 12, foundation 70 stitches.
Net 120 rows. For the fringe, with double cotton, and a mesh 2 inches
wide, net 2 stitches in 1 all round; it is then embroidered thus—thread
a rug needle with the cotton, and begin in the corner; take 1 thread,
and miss 1, twice, as in darning; work 5 threads in each; then work the
contrary way, forming a vandyke. Work 2
rows in this manner; then count the middle stitch of the work, and make
a diamond, same as the border.
Various patterns may be worked in this manner, but they are
impossible to describe.
Click to Enlarge Pattern
No. 10
[90]
D’Oyley.
Mesh No. 8, cotton No. 12, 34 stitches.
Net 53 rows.
Fringe—Mesh 1 inch wide, 2 stitches in 1, all round.
Embroidered as Anti-Macassar.
Bread Basket
D’Oyley.
Mesh No. 6, cotton No. 12, 50 stitches.
Net 126 rows. Fringe as D’Oyley.
Netted
Purse.
For a Gentleman.
Mesh No. 15, coarse netting silk, 90 stitches.
Net 8 inches; join up 34 stitches on each side, leaving 22 for the
opening.
This purse takes 4 skeins of silk.
[91]
Lady’s
Purse.
Mesh No. 16, 3 skeins of 2nd size purse silk, 70
stitches.
Net 8 inches, join up 26 stitches on each side, leaving 18 for the
opening.
Bead
Purse.
Mesh No. 14, coarse silk, and No. 7 beads 3
bunches, 60 stitches; measure 1 yard and a 1/4 of silk, thread a small
sewing needle with it.
1st row—Net the 1st stitch, thread 2 beads, pass them close to the
last stitch; net the stitch, and continue putting 2 beads in every
stitch.
2nd row—The same, keeping the 2 beads on the outside.
Work 7 inches, join up 22 stitches on each side, leaving 16 for the
opening.
[92]
Wedding Purse.
With Motto No. 11.
Extra fine white netting silk, and No. 4 gold
beads; meshes Nos. 6, 16, and 19; 65 stitches.
With No. 16 mesh net 7 rows.
No. 6 mesh, net 3 stitches in 1.
No. 19 mesh, net 3 plain rows.
No. 6 mesh, net 1 row.
No. 16 mesh, net a row, netting 3 stitches together every stitch;
repeat. Net 7 rows.
Repeat this pattern twice more.
In the next pattern, instead of working the 3 rows with No. 19 mesh,
work the motto No. 2.
With No. 19 mesh, net 1 plain row, net 62 stitches, and then begin
the motto; finish the row plain. Then cut the silk off, commence at the
other end, and work the second row of motto; at the end of this row, cut
the silk off, and knot the 2 ends together, to prevent losing a stitch.
After the motto is finished, net 1 plain row, and repeat the first
pattern 3 times.
The beads are put on in the following[93]
manner,—thread a bead, (with a small needle,) net 1 stitch, pass the
silk under the mesh, put the needle through the bead, bring the silk in
front again; this brings the bead on the knot.
Click to Enlarge Pattern No 11 chart
Another Purse.
With motto No. 12.
Fine silk, brown or blue, mesh No. 18, No. 5 steel
beads, 90 stitches.
Net 4 inches plain.
Then commence the motto, putting the beads in as former receipt.
Net 25 stitches, net the first row of motto, finish the row plain;
cut the silk off, and commence at the other end. Net 4 inches plain, to
correspond with the other side.
Click to enlarge No 12
Pattern
chart
[94]
LONDON:
Printed by Kelly & Pritchett, 32, Houndsditch.
ERRATA.
Page 45, in 9th row, for slip 1, read slip 2.
Page 45, in 19th row, for purl 1, read knit 3.
Page 59, in 1st round, for 1 treble, read 1
treble 3 chain.
Page 62, in second round, for 7 chain, read 7
plain.
The End of
Knitting, Crochet and Netting.
LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY S. KNIGHTS,
6, ’Change Alley, Cornhill.
1846.
Price 2s. 6d.
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