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[i]
THE
NEW GUIDE
TO
KNITTING & CROCHET.
BY
MARIE JANE COOPER.
DEDICATED BY PERMISSION,
TO THE
COUNTESS OF WICKLOW,
Whose kindness to the Authoress, will ever be remembered with grateful
feelings of respect,
By her most obedient servant,
MARIE JANE COOPER
PREFACE.
I venture to publish The New
Guide to Knitting and Crochet, believing it will prove both
instructive and amusing to those Ladies, whose taste leads them to such
pursuits. The Authoress being practically acquainted with these Arts,
she warrants them correct, and trusts they will meetwith a favourable
reception by the Public, and be found a useful appendage to every
work-table.
Hastings, January 1847.
[iii]
INDEX.
Page
Siberian Cuffs
1
Leaf Pattern for a Pincushion
2
Twisted Knitting
3
Vandyke Border
ib
Open-knitted Lace Cuffs
4
Prudence Cap
5
Cardinal Cape
ib
Shell-Pattern Purse
6
A very beautiful Cap Crown
ib
Head Piece for Cap
8
Insertion for Cuffs
9
Feather Pattern
10
Edgings
ib
Another Edge
11
Leaf Stitch
ib
Knitted Muff
12
Long Sleeves for under a Dress
ib
Opera Cap
13
Shetland Shawl
14
Star-Pattern Shawl
15
Shetland Knitted Scarf
16
Leaf Pattern for an Anti-Macassar
17
Knitted Fringe
18
Knitted Bag, with black, garnet, or steel
Beads ib
Directions for a full-sized Quilt
19
Chair Back Pattern
ib
A broad open Lace
20
Hour-Glass Pattern Cuffs
21
A very handsome Mat
ib
Ribbed Mitts
24
Watch Chains
ib
Directions for a Purse
ib
A Bag to hold Wools
25
Baby’s Shoes
ib
Toilet Cushion
26
A Stocking
ib
Knitted Fringe
28
[iv]
Carriage Boots
ib
Baby’s Hood
29
For the Hood
ib
Knitted Bustle
30
Anti-Macassar
ib
Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts
31
Ruff for the Neck
32
Polka Coat, for a Child
33
A very pretty Fringe
35
Under Sleeves
36
Baby’s Knitted Body
39
Band for Baby’s Body
40
Edging for ditto
43
Gentleman’s Woollen Gloves
44
To form a Pattern for the Back
ib
CROCHET
Directions for the different stitches in
close and open Crochet
46
Raised Crochet
47
Chain Open Crochet
ib
Single Open Crochet
ib
Double Open Crochet
48
Treble Open Crochet
ib
Vandyke Open Crochet
ib
A pretty Neck Tie
49
A new Sofa Pillow
ib
A Carpet Bag
ib
A Neck Rest, or Cushion
50
A Brioche, or Turkish Cushion
51
A very elegant Bag
52
Original Pattern for a Crochet Collar
53
Plain Purse
55
Mouchoir Case
ib
Warm Muffatees
ib
Raised Crochet Slippers
56
Anti-Macassar
ib
Shawl
57
Watch Chains
58
Ladies’ Cuffs
ib
THE NEW GUIDE
TO
KNITTING AND CROCHET
SIBERIAN CUFFS.
Nine shades of wool used
double, or double Berlin, either in shades of sable or chinchilli, look
best. Cast on sixty stitches, knit three plain rows with the darkest
shade; in the fourth row seam two stitches together; pass the wool
round, seam two together; pass the wool round, seam two together, and so
on till the end of the row. Join on the next shade, and knit three plain
rows. In the fourth row, seam two together; pass the wool round, and
seam two together the same as before; continue in this manner knitting
three plain rows and an open row of each shade, until the ninth of
white. Only knit two plain rows; this will reverse the shades: join the
second lightest shade, and knit one plain[2]
row and one open row; two plain rows; continue knitting one plain row,
one open row, and two plain rows of each shade; it will then correspond
in appearance with the other side; then sew the two edges together, and
let the join come in the centre of the wrong side, and it will look as
though knit double.
LEAF PATTERN FOR A PINCUSHION.
Cast on each needle forty-five stitches, fifteen for each pattern.First
round—pass the thread in front, purl two, knit one, taking the back
part of the loop; purl two, slip one, knit one, and bring the slipped
stitch over the last knit, knit six, bring the thread forward; knit one;
continue this till the round is completed. Second round—thread
before, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two,
slip one, and cast the slipped over; knit the remaining stitches plain;
in the first row you have increased one stitch in every fifteen; the
second brings them to the original number; knit these rounds
alternately, making the holes (which occur in every[3]
alternate row) one stitch sooner each time, i. e., knitting five,
then four, then three, then two, then one, instead of six stitches, and
plain to the purled stitches, then commence as before.
TWISTED KNITTING.
Begin with about twenty stitches on one needle, and with the other
knit two or three plain rows; next row knit six plain, purl eight, knit
the remainder plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows;
next row, when the right side is towards you, after knitting the first
six stitches plain, take a third needle, and slip off four stitches, and
keep them behind till you have knit the next four; then knit them; this
forms the twist; then knit the remaining six plain; knit the next row
plain, and so on for twelve rows; then repeat the twist.
VANDYKE BORDER.
Cast on nine stitches, slip one, knit one, bring the thread forward,
and knit two together for[4]
three times, thread forward, knit one, purl the next row; repeat these
two rows alternately, increasing one plain stitch each time in the fancy
row, until you have eighteen stitches; to decrease the point, slip the
first, knit two together, bring the thread forward, and knit two
together for four times, until it is reduced to nine stitches; every
alternate row is purled.
OPEN
KNITTED LACE CUFFS.
Needles No. 20, and No. 34, Boar’s-head cotton. Cast on thirty-four
stitches, knit four plain rows. Fifth row—knit two, slip one,
knit one, pass the slipt one over the knitted one, bring the thread
forward, knit one, thread forward, knit one, thread forward, purl one,
and so on to the end of the row. Commence the next row by slipping one,
and continue as before, till you come to the end of the row, where you
will have two plain stitches left, which are to be knit; continue with
these rows alternately, until the cuff is
long enough for the wrist, then[5]cast
off the stitches, and edge it with narrow Valenciennes lace, or with the
Vandyke edging.
PRUDENCE CAP.
Cast on fifty stitches coloured wool, knit eight rows, knitting and
purling alternate rows, and twisting each stitch; five rows of coloured,
and four of white wool, knit loosely on small ivory pins, for the edge.
CARDINAL CAPE.
Cast on seventy-two stitches in the Brioche stitch, which is done by
bringing the wool forward; slip one stitch off underneath, and knit two
together, coloured wool, and knit one row, besides the casting-on row,
white wool, knit four times from end to end; and then leave six stitches
each time, till you have formed one gore; twice and back with coloured
wool; and then another white gore; fourteen white gores,[6]
and finish with one coloured row; and
then cast off. Border for the lower end, with an open scollop: run one
string round the row of holes, and another string in a few stitches
lower to form the waist; the Brioches are done in the same manner; but
twelve gores, and each different colours; you cast on sixty stitches
instead of seventy-two: six oz. white, and two coloured four-thread
fleecy, or double Berlin wool, is enough for cape and border.
SHELL PATTERN
PURSE.
Cast on ninety-six stitches, pins No. 19; thread a row of beads; knit
three plain rows; purl the close scollop; and every purl stitch knit a
bead, twelve rows of beads deep at each end; and ten rows of beads deep
in the middle; three plain rounds; cast off.
A VERY
BEAUTIFUL CAP CROWN.
No. 22 pins, and 60, Boar’s-head cotton. Cast on three stitches on
each of three needles.[7]
First row—plain. Second row—make one, knit one, to the end
of the row. Third—plain. Fourth—make one, knit two, to the
end. Fifth—plain. Sixth—make one, knit three.Seventh—plain.
Eighth—make one, knit four. Ninth—plain.Tenth—make
one, knit five. Eleventh—plain. Twelfth—make one, knit
six. Thirteenth—plain. Fourteenth—make one, knit one, make
one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit four. Fifteenth—plain.Sixteenth—make
one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip
one, knit one, turn over; knit three.Seventeenth—plain.
Eighteenth—make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn
over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit
one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit two.
Nineteenth—plain. Twentieth—make one, knit one, make one,
slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over;
make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one,
turn over; knit one.[8]
Twenty-first—plain.Twenty-second—make one, knit one, make
one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn
over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit
one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over. Twenty-third—plain.
BORDER.
Twenty-fourth row—purl; catch up a stitch at each point of the
star.Twenty-fifth—purl. Twenty-sixth—knit two stitches
together, all round. Twenty-seventh—throw the thread over the
needle, before every stitch. Twenty-eighth—plain. Twenty-ninth—purl;
now begin at row twenty-five, and knit the border over again
twice.
HEAD-PIECE OF THE CAP.
A round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds, bring the cotton forward,
take two together, for[9]
five rounds; four plain rounds, bring cotton forward, and knit two
together, for five rounds; four plain rounds; a round of eyelet holes;
four plain rounds; bring the cotton forward, knit two together, knit
five; bring cotton forward, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two
together, knit three; knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit two
together, knit three-knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward,
knit two together, knit one, knit two together, bring cotton forward,
knit one stitch.
INSERTION FOR
CUFFS.
A row of eyelet holes, done by bringing the cotton forward, and
knitting two together; afterwards five plain rows; knit six, pass the
seam stitch over, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together, four
plain; knit four; pass the seam stitch over, bring cotton forward, and
knit two together, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together,
knit one; knit three; pass the seamed stitch over, bring cotton forward,
knit two[10]together,
knit three; bring cotton forward, knit two together, take one off; knit
two together, and draw over.
FEATHER PATTERN.
Nineteen stitches for each pattern on three pins; bring the thread
forward, and knit one, three times; take two together, three times; knit
one (centre stitch), decrease three times more, increase three times;
knit three plain rounds.
EDGINGS.
Cast on twelve stitches. First row—knit three, make one, take
two together, knit one, make one, take two together, three times over.Second—knit
two, and purl one, three times; knit three, make one, take two, knit
one. Third—knit three, knit three, make one, take two together,
knit ten. Fourth—cast off three, knit eight, make one, take two,
knit one.
[11]
ANOTHER EDGE.
Cast on eight stitches. First row—knit three, make one, take
two together, knit one, make two, knit two. Second row—knit
three, purl one, knit three, make one, take two together, knit one.
Third row—knit three, make one, take two, knit five. Fourth row—cast
off two, knit four, make one, take two, knit one; commence again.
LEAF
STITCH.
This is for one pattern only. Cast on eight stitches. First row—make
a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, take two together, knit two.Second
row—plain. Third row—make one, knit three, make one, knit
one; diminish, knit one. Fourth row—plain. Fifth row—make
one, knit five, make one, diminish. Sixth row—plain; diminish by
taking two stitches off together, knitting one, and drawing two over the
knitted one.
[12]
KNITTED MUFF.
Cast on forty-five stitches, every row alike; slip a stitch at the
beginning, knit one, purl one, repeat to the end a piece about twenty
inches in length, enough for a moderate sized muff, lined with
Gros-de-Naples, stuffed with wool, and enough horse hair to keep it in
shape: shades of wool to imitate sable, are the best colours.
LONG SLEEVES TO WEAR UNDER A DRESS.
No. 14 pins, and six-thread embroidery fleecy. Cast on forty-two
stitches loosely, and knit and purl three stitches alternately, for
twelve turns; knit ten turns plain; knit thirty-five turns plain,
increasing one stitch on each turn; knit twenty turns plain, increasing
one stitch every other turn; repeat the twelve turns, as at the
beginning.
[13]
OPERA
CAP.
Cast on seventy-four stitches white wool, purl one row, knit one row
white, purl one row coloured, bring the wool forward, and knit two as
one; purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row, knit one row white;
this forms the border. First division—coloured; purl one row,
knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row, knit a
fancy row, by taking two stitches together, keeping the wool before the
pin.Second division—white; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at
each end, knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end; knit one
row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one fancy row as before.
Thirddivision—coloured; purl one row,
decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row without decreasing; knit
a fancy row, as before. Fourth division, fifth, sixth,
seventh—the same as the third, to be repeated alternately with
white and coloured wool. Eighth division—white. Ninth—co[14]loured:
in these two last divisions, only two stitches are to be decreased in
each, and this is to be done in the row, after the one at each end.
N.B. There should be forty stitches left on the pin in the last row;
if the pins are small, begin with eighty stitches, and then there should
be forty-six left, instead of forty; pick up thirty stitches on each
side, and make the borders at the sides and back, like the first: make
up the cap, by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it all
round: it is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbon, or
plaitted wool, with tassels of the same.
SHETLAND SHAWL PATTERN.
Shetland wool, and No. 4 pins; about one hundred and sixty stitches;
cast on any number of stitches that will divide by six. First row—bring
the wool forward, knit one, wool in front, knit one, slip one, knit two
as one;[15]
bring the slipt stitch over, then knit one.Second row—purl
knitting. Third row—wool forward, knit three; wool forward, slip
one, knit two as one, and cast over. Fourth row—purl knitting.
Fifth row—knit one, slip one, knit two as one, and bring the slipt
stitch over, and then knit one, make one, knit one, wool forward.
Sixth row—purl knitting. Seventh row—slip one, knit two as
one, and cast over, make one, knit three, make one. Eighth row—purl
knitting; there are to be two plain stitches at the beginning and end of
each row, to form an edge; take up the stitches on each ride, and knit
the border in the feather pattern, increasing one stitch at each end of
the rows, to form the corner.
STAR-PATTERN
SHAWL,
IN TWO COLOURS.
Cast on four stitches in blue wool. First row—wool before the
pin, knit one, wool before,[16]
slip one, knit two not together; pass the slipt stitch over them; repeat
this to the end. Second row—purl knitting in claret. Third row—game
as the first, in blue. Fourth row—same as the second, in claret;
repeat these rows until there are one hundred and eighty stitches on the
pin: cast off and finish with a fringe; as the increasing adds an
irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and others two knitted
stitches at the commencement.
SHETLAND KNITTED SCARF.
Commence with the pattern of the border by casting on one hundred
stitches for the width of the scarf; No. 4 pins and Shetland wool are
required. First row—knit two together four times, bring the wool
forward, and knit one eight times, knit two as one four times, purl one,
repeat to the end of the row. Second row—purled. Third row—plain.Fourth
row—purled; repeat from the first row, until the pattern is[17]about
fourteen inches deep. Commence the centre as follows (this is done in
white wool—the borders in shades). First row—plain knitting
before beginning the pattern. First row of the pattern, wool
before, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, purl
one; repeat to the end of the row. Second and following rows—repeat,
every row being alike; both ends of the scarf are to be made the same,
by reversing the knitting of the border; they may be finished with a red
knitted or netted fringe of the same wool doubled twice.
LEAF PATTERN,
FOR AN ANTI-MACASSAR.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by eight. First
row—make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, slip two as one,
knit one, and draw the slipt ones over it; purl back. Third row—make
one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish; knit one, purl back.
Fifth row—make one, knit five; diminish; purl back.[18]
Seventh row—diminish, knit two, make one, knit one, make one,
purl back.Ninth row—knit one, diminish, knit one, make one, knit
three, make one, purl back. Eleventh row—make one, knit five,
make one, purl back.
KNITTED FRINGE.
Cast on seven stitches, slip the first, bring the cotton forward, and
knit two together twice, then put the needle into the last stitch,
without drawing it out, until you have wound the cotton round two
fingers three times, the whole of which must be taken together as one
stitch; knit the last stitches back row plain knitting.
KNITTED BAG,
WITH BLACK, GARNET, OR STEEL BEADS.
Thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of coarse netting silk, and
cast on eighty-eight stitches. First and second row plain
knitting without beads. Third row—slip one, knit one[19]
with a bead, knit one to the end of the row; repeat from first row
eighty-four times; observe, at the commencement of every row, to make a
slipt stitch; join up the two sides, leaving an opening at the top, and
finished with two bars and a gold or steel chain, a fringe of the garnet
beads, with gold points; it should have a stiff lining. No. 16 pins,
eight skeins of silk, and four bunches of beads, including those
required for the fringe, will be wanted.
DIRECTIONS FOR A
FULL-SIZED QUILT.
No. 18 COTTON, No. 20 PINS.
Eight stripes with one hundred and thirteen stitches for each, with a
border of fifty stitches; a counterpane without a border will require
more stripes.
CHAIR
BACK PATTERN.
Cast on one hundred and eighty stitches, pins No. 12; knit the length
on the pins; pattern stitch is cast over twice, and take two as one;[20]
knit one; do this for five rows, knitting back plain each time; then
reverse the pattern; then cast over twice; knit one and take two five
times.
A BROAD OPEN
LACE.
Cast on fifteen stitches, slip one, knit one, turn over four times;
knit two as one; turn over; knit two as one; repeat; turn over; knit two
as one four times more; knit one. Second row—slip one, knit
twelve, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit two. Third row—plain
knitting. Fourth row—plain. Fifth row—slip one, knit one,
turn over five times, knit two as one, turn over, knit two as one,
repeat, turn over, knit two as one five times more, knit one. Sixth
row—slip one, knit fifteen, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit
three. Seventh row—plain. Eighth row—plain. Ninth row—cast
off seven, and begin at the first row to knit one, turn over four times,
and commence again.
[21]
HOUR
GLASS PATTERN CUFFS.
To be sewn down at one end; cast on sixty loops, knit twenty-two rows
of white, then two rows of each colour, three shades are required, and
white, four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades; four
rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades, four of white, six
of white, ribbed two, and knit two, two coloured of each shade ribbed;
the same ten of white ribbed ditto, two of coloured, six of white, and
cast off.
A VERY
HANDSOME MAT.
This mat is made to imitate fur, with ermine in the centre. To make
this mat a yard long and three quarters wide, you require one pound of
fleecy; that is, a quarter of a pound of each of four shades for the
border, half a pound of white for the middle, and one pound of common
for the back; also two skeins of black for the[22]
tails; it must all be in six-thread fleecy, except the common for the
back, which requires twelve-thread. No. 6 pin, by the eagle gauge, is
required. Cast on seventy-two stitches with the common white, knit one
plain row, then take a skein of the darkest or lightest, according to
fancy, cut the skein into half, and divide each half into four, so that
the pieces may be about half a quarter in length; slip the first stitch;
then take two of the pieces of wool, put them on the left hand pin,
twisting it so that one may be behind and the other in front; knit the
next stitch, and the two pieces of wool altogether; bring the ends in
front and knit another stitch, one plain row between each, and three
rows of each four shades; cut previous to commencing the second shade
put in two pieces of the darkest at each end; this for three rows: the
third shade, two pieces of each of the previous shades, and so on, until
you have completed the border, by knitting in the four shades; then put
in two pieces of each colour, and commence[23]
the white; you will have forty-eight stitches for the white; knit twelve
rows, that is to say, six rows putting the pieces in, and every other
one being plain, makes the twelve rows; then knit in six pieces, take
two of the black, and then twelve more white, one piece of black and
twelve more white, one more of black; if the mat is larger or smaller,
the centre stitches have only to be equally divided by spots of black:
the next row you must put in two black over the one in the previous row,
and in the third row one of black over each two; then six more rows of
white, that is twelve with the plain one, and then knit in twelve pieces
before you commence the black; repeat this as above-mentioned; you will
find that this time you will have only space for two black spots;
continue in this way till it is finished: it is then combed out until it
resembles fur; you then twist the four pieces of black together to
resemble the tail; a little gum is then used in twisting this. After
having been well combed, they are made up on a stiff[24]
back. They may also be made with an ermine outside, and a coloured
centre, but they are not so pretty.
RIBBED MITTS.
Cast on fifty-six stitches round the wrist; increase till you have
seventy-four by the thumb; take off twenty-three stitches for the thumb;
these ought to be twenty-one rows in depth, sixteen from the bottom, and
five above the thumb.
WATCH CHAINS.
Cast on three stitches, slip a stitch, take one off, knit one, and
slip the previous one over.
FOR A
PURSE.
Cast on with No. 18 pins, and a middling-sized silk, of which you
require four skeins; make a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip the
previous one over this.
[25]
A BAG TO HOLD
WOOLS.
Cast on one hundred and forty five stitches with cruels, of which you
require six skeins for one bag; two yards of ribbon, and two and a half
of another colour, to bind the ring; six different shades, and fourteen
rows of each colour in the plain stitch of knitting; the centre double
the number of rows.
BABY’S SHOES.
Cast on thirty-six stitches, scarlet German wool; two rows of red;
sixteen rows of white; narrow, by taking two together, on the
seventeenth and twenty-first rows; knit thirteen more rows, then divide
the stitches into three, viz.:—ten, twelve, and ten: knit twenty rows on
the middle needle, which has the twelve stitches, and bind, or cast them
off; take up the front, as you would a stocking heel, and make twelve
stitches beyond; knit two rows[26]
narrowing at the toe, every other row; this is to be repeated six times,
and then at the heel, still narrowing the same in front, till you have
only sixteen stitches which bind off, take up the red stitches in front,
catching one white one each time, till the other side is like the first;
you may introduce open stitches on the instep, and round the leg.
TOILET CUSHION.
Cast on thirty-six loops on the two first pins, and forty-eight on
the other; knit two plain rounds one purl, three plain, six plain, with
the thread brought forward, two plain, one purl, one plain, fifteen
plain, one plain, one purl, one purl narrowing one, eleven plain, slip
one, knit one, pass it over, one plain, one purl, one plain, narrow
once, seven plain, slip one, knit one, pass it over.
A
STOCKING.
Cast on one hundred and three stitches for the first six rounds; knit
two, and purl two, then[27]
one row, every stitch turned; twenty-four purl, taking in one on each
side the seam, eight purl, take in again, eight purl, and take in; then
twelve purl, and increase; which must be done by making a stitch on each
side the seam; three purl, and increase again, three purl, and
increase again, fourteen purl, take in,
three purl, take in; do this until you have taken in sixteen times;
twenty purl; set the heel by dividing the stitches, when there will be,
if correct, thirty-five for the heel, and thirty-six for the instep;
knit nineteen, purl the twentieth, purl under two stitches beyond the
seam, on the wrong side, and take two together; this do on each side,
till you have taken up all, to each end, when there will remain seven
stitches on your pin, take up the stitches, and in the third row, make a
stitch; in every third stitch in the next round, take two stitches
together, where the instep and heel join, do this every other round,
till you have reduced the heel stitches to the same number you have on
your instep pin;[28]forty-four
rounds plain, take in on each side the heel and instep, leaving two
stitches between; knit two rounds, take in the same again, this do six
times, then take in every other round five times, two rounds every time,
when you will have twenty-three or twenty-four stitches remaining, which
cast off.
KNITTED FRINGE.
Cast on eight stitches; slip the first, make one, knit two together,
put in a piece of cotton or wool on the left hand needle, knit one
stitch, bring the ends in front, and knit another, put them back, and
knit the remainder, the next row plain, except the stitch you put the
piece in, take three all together.
CARRIAGE BOOTS.
Cast on fifty-six stitches, with black wool; knit ten rows coloured,
ten black, ten coloured, ten black; increase sixteen ribs on each side;[29]after
the increasing is finished, knit three rows ribbed, with coloured wool;
thirty-seven rows of black; these ought to be done in three-thread
fleecy, and fine pins.
PIECE ROUND THE NECK.
Cast on one hundred and forty stitches; knit six rows plain, knitting
four on each pin plain, and purl, twelve rows of double knitting,
twenty-four rows narrowing at the end, in double knitting, eight rows
plain knitting, and cast off.
FOR
THE HOOD.
Cast on one hundred and five stitches, ribbing five, and knitting
five; knit six rows, and begin double, knitting four at each end plain,
of which knit thirty-two rows, and then narrow off at each end six
times, knit six rows plain, and cast off; double this in the middle,
gather[30]
up about three nails, and stitch a string in front beyond the ribbed
purl.
KNITTED BUSTLE.
For this you require six ounces of eight-thread fleecy, and two pair
of pins, No. 1 and No. 10, by the Eagle
gauge. Cast on sixty stitches on the fine pins, and knit six rows,
knitting two, and purling two stitches; then take the larger sized one,
and knit thirty rows, putting the wool twice round the pin; then another
piece but only twenty-six rows, and the third only eighteen rows.
Commence always in this manner, with the fine pins, join them altogether
at the part which is ribbed, and put it on a string.
ANTI-MACASSAR.
Cast on one hundred stitches on No. 10 pins, with No. 4 cotton, and
knit one plain row (pattern). First row—purled. Second row—cotton
forward, and take two together. Third row[31]—purled.
Fourth row—plain, with No. 2 pins, cotton twice over the pins;
repeat these four rows until the square is complete; sew every six
threads of the large row tightly together in the centre, with scarlet
German wool, fastening off each six securely and separately; then knit
any fringe you may fancy, and join it on.
HARLEQUIN QUILTS,
WITH TUFTS.
Plain double knitting, with six-thread fleecy, in pieces of six
inches square, each of the pieces being about twenty-four stitches each
way; when finished, they are to be sewn together with a tuft of black
wool at the corner of each square. The tufts may be made in the
following manner:—take a groved wooden mesh, an inch in width, wind
round it four-thread black fleecy about twelve times; slip a coarse
thread in the grove, and tie the wool quite tight, leaving an end to it
that may be drawn through and[32]
attached to the quilt; cut the loops of wool through on the opposite
side of the mesh, then comb and shear it neatly, for a quilt two yards
and a half square, two hundred and twenty-five pieces will be required:
it will take two hundred and fifty-six tufts.
RUFF FOR THE
NECK.
For this you require five-thread super fleecy, and two sized pins,
No. 3 and No. 11; cast on fifty stitches on No. 3, and knit seventeen
plain rows. Eighteenth row—double the piece of knitting, and knit
the casting on row in with this one. Nineteenth, twentieth, and
twenty-first rows—are plain, with No. 11 pins. Twenty-second row—knit
one, bring the wool forward, and take two together to the end.
Twenty-third, twenty-fourth, and twenty-fifth rows—plain now; No. 3
pins, and knit eighteen rows to match the first fold; sew this side down
to match the other; run a ribbon through the holes for strings.
[33]
A
POLKA COAT,
FOR A CHILD.
Cast on twenty-five stitches, which will make seventy-five ribs, in
the Brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward, slipping
a stitch the purl way, and knit two together; bring the wool forward,
knit twenty-four rows, or twelve turns of white; then commence the
scarlet, by leaving eighteen stitches on each side, knit twenty-four
rows, or twelve turns of scarlet; then begin to take in, which is done
by knitting the first thirty on each side, without decreasing; then
bring the wool forward, slip one stitch, and knit five together; repeat
this till within thirty on the other side, which, knit without
decreasing, until you have only forty ribs, or one hundred and twenty
stitches; knit forty-eight rows, or twenty-four turns, in this manner,
still leaving the white on each side; put thirty stitches on another
needle for the front, knit those backwards and forwards for[34]
thirty-six rows, or eighteen turns; then knit all the stitches but one
rib, turn back, and finish the row, and so on, leaving one rib more each
time, till it is the proper length for the shoulder. Cast off, but be
particular that the slanting side is not in front; finish the other side
in the same way, then take up the stitches for the back; knit thirty-six
rows, to correspond with the fronts for the arm-hole; then knit
backwards and forwards, leaving one rib each way, until it is the same
length as the slanting part in front, which are to be joined together;
cast off; now take up the white stitches on each side, and knit till it
is long enough to go up the sides; for the sleeves; cast on seventy-two
stitches, knit thirty rows, then twelve more, leaving one rib on the one
side to form the wide part; for the collar; cast on seventy-six
stitches, and knit twelve rows, leaving one rib on each side; then
sixteen rows of white; cast off; cast on eighteen stitches for the cuff,
and knit till it is long[35]
enough to go round the bottom of the sleeve; twist a cord of the same
coloured wool, and put in the waist behind, with a tassel at the ends;
the same under the collar. These may be done in four-thread fleecy, but
they look much better in double Berlin wool, No. 9 pins, by the Eagle
gauge. For a lady’s, you must cast on
stitches in proportion, and larger pins.
A VERY
PRETTY FRINGE.
Cast on nine stitches; knit one row; second row, begin by knitting
two plain stitches; pass the cotton twice round the pin, and take off
two stitches; then put on the loop. Having cut the cotton into lengths
you may require for the fringe, and knit one stitch, pass the loop
forward, and knit another; then pass it back, and knit two stitches;
bring it forward again, and knit one more; in the next row, knit four
stitches, and take off the loop and one of the stitches, leaving five to
knit off plain.
[36]
No. 30, Boar’s-head cotton, No. 24 needles, by the Eagle knitting
gauge. Set on seventy-eight stitches, twenty-six on each needle, six
stitches in each pattern. First round—bring the thread forward,
knit three plain; bring the thread forward, slip one off without
knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the
taken-in loop.Second round—plain, then knit one stitch of the
next row. Third round—bring the thread forward, slip one off
without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one
over the taken-in loop, knit three. Fourth round—plain, then knit
one stitch of the next row.Fifth round—bring the thread forward,
knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one, take
two together. Sixth round—plain, then knit one stitch of the next
row. Seventh round—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring[37]
the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together.
Eighth round—plain; then knit one stitch of the next row. Ninth
round—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward,
take two together; knit one, take two together. Tenth round—plain,
then knit one stitch of the next row. Eleventh round—bring the
thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together;
knit one, take two together. Twelfth round—plain; continue this
till it is long enough, then cast it off very loosely.
KNITTED EDGINGS TO TRIM THIS UNDER-SLEEVE.
Needles No. 24, Boar’s-head cotton No. 30. First row—slip one,
knit two; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit
the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop;
bring the thread forward, knit three, bring the thread forward, take two
together; bring the thread forward[38]
twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two
together, knit one. Second row—slip one, knit two; purl one, knit
two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two
together, knit one. Third row—slip one, knit two; bring the
thread forward, take two together; bring the thread forward, take two
together; knit one, take two together; bring the thread forward, knit
three; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the
thread forward twice, take two together, knit one.Fourth row—slip
one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring
the thread forward, take two together, knit one. Fifth row—slip
one, knit two; thread forward, take two together, knit one; bring the
thread forward, slip one off without knitting; knit two together; then
lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop; bring the thread forward,
knit six; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the
thread forward twice, take two together, knit one.Sixth[39]
row—slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit
one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one.Seventh
row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, take two together;
take two together, bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread
forward, take two together, knit seven; bring the thread forward twice,
take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together,
knit one. Eighth row—cast off eight, purl eleven, knit one; bring
the thread forward, take two together, knit one: you must purl the half
stitches. Begin again at the first row.
BABY’S KNITTED
BODY.
This body is part of knitting, which is let into cambric. No. 24,
Boar’s-head cotton, Needles No. 17, Eagle knitting gauge. The front is
made in the following manner:—set on seven stitches, knit two plain
rows; then begin the pattern row; make one stitch, knit a stitch,[40]
bring the cotton forward, take off one without knitting, knit two, bring
the unknitted one over the other two; knit the second row plain; the
third row the same as the first; these two rows form the pattern. You
must only make a stitch, and knit one, at the commencement of every
pattern-row, this is to increase the front; the pattern is continued
throughout; the row is, bring the cotton forward, take off one without
knitting, knit two, bring the unknitted one over the two. When you have
one or two stitches at the end of the row, they must be knitted plain;
continue these two rows till you have done enough for the front of a
baby’s body, then cast off very loosely.
The sleeves are knitted in the same way, only begin with nine
stitches; then knit two plain rows; cast off when proper size.
BAND FOR
BABY’S BODY.
Cast on twenty-one stitches; pins and cotton as before. First row—slip
one, knit two;[41]
bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three, knit two
together; bring the thread forward, and knit one; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit five; bring the thread forward;
knit two together, knit one. Second row—slip one, knit two; bring
the thread forward; knit two together; knit the remaining stitches plain
all but three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit
one. Third row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and
knit two together, knit two, knit two together; bring the thread
forward; knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together,
knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one.
Fourth row—the same as the second.Fifth row—slip one, knit
two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one, knit two
together; bring the thread forward, and knit two; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit one; bring the thread forward, and
knit two[42]
together, knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together,
knit one. Sixth row—the same as the second. Seventh row—slip
one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two
together; bring the thread forward; knit seven; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit two; bring the thread forward, and
knit two together, knit one.Eighth row—the same as the second.
Ninth row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two
together, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together,
knit three, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit four;
bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Tenth row—the
same as the second.Eleventh row—slip one, knit two; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, knit three; bring the thread forward,
knit two together, knit one, knit two together; bring the thread
forward, knit five; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit
one. Twelfth row—the same[43]
as the second. Thirteenth row—slip one, knit two; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward,
and knit three together; bring the thread forward, knit six; bring the
thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Fourteenth row—the
same as the second; then recommence as at the first row.
EDGING TO TRIM THE BODY AND SLEEVES.
Cast on seven stitches. First row—slip one, knit two; bring
the thread forward, and knit two together; make two stitches, and knit
two together. Second row—make one, knit two, purl one, knit two;
bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Third row—slip
one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit
four. Fourth row—cast off two, knit three; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit one; then commence as at first.
[44]
GENTLEMAN’S WOOLEN GLOVES.
PINS No. 14—WOOL Three-thread Fleecy.
Cast on seventy-two stitches, and knit twenty rounds; purling two,
and knitting two; then knit six rounds plain.
TO FORM A PATTERN FOR THE BACK.
First round—knit seven, purl one; knit eight, purl
one; knit eight, purl one; knit the rest
plain. Second round—knit six, purl three; knit six, purl three;
knit six, purl three; rest plain. Third round—knit five, purl
five; knit four, purl five; knit four, purl five; rest plain. Fourth
round—knit as the second. Fifth round—knit as the first. Knit
ten rounds plain, still purling one stitch on the end of each diamond.
Begin the thumb by making one stitch in each of the two last, at the
same time increasing one plain stitch in the first and third purl[45]stitches.
Continue increasing two stitches on the two thumb stitches, each other
round, till you have twenty-four extra stitches, which place on another
pin, and knit forty rounds without them. Divide the thumb stitches on
three pins, and increase two more on the under part of it; knit round,
decreasing the same part (the under) till you have twenty-two left,
which knit on till long enough, when again decrease till you have nine
stitches only; break off the wool, and with a worsted needle, draw it
through all the stitches, and fasten it inside. Divide your stitches for
each finger, taking two more for each of the two first fingers, than for
the other two; it is better to measure by a glove, for the length of the
fingers and thumb: this pattern is for the left hand, and wants the
pattern for the back, reversing and knitting on the last, instead of the
first pin; two-thread fleecy is required.
[46]
Directions for the different Stitches
IN
CLOSE AND OPEN CROCHET WORK.
The greater part of close
crochet articles are done in the double-plain stitch, which is done by
taking a piece of wool, and casting on as many loops in chain-stitch as
you may require, with the needle; it is very simple, being only to form
a loop and draw the wool through one and another; the easiest manner
would be, to continue drawing the wool through from right to left; this
will make the work the same on both sides. The plain single-crochet is
done by merely drawing the one loop you have on your needle through each
stitch. Plain double[47]
crochet is when you have cast on the foundation-loops, draw the wool
through one stitch; take it up again, and through two; this stitch is
used for table-covers and sofa-cushions; also when patterns are worked
in. In the double-stitch crochet, you take both sides of the loop, but
that is only used when you require it thick, and is very nice for soles
for shoes.
Raised Crochet is worked alternately from one side to the other,
drawing the wool quite through, and taking the underneath part of the
loop.
The
Chain open Crochet is made of chains, as for
instance, five or seven loops drawn one through the other, and joined to
the centre stitch of the preceding row; this is very pretty for purses,
with a bead on each of the centre stitches.
Single open Crochet is done by putting your
needle under the wool, and then through the loop, draw the wool through,
you will find that you have three stitches on your needle;[48]
draw the wool through the first two stitches, and then through the other
two; you will now have one loop: make one by drawing the wool through
that one; put it underneath and through the next loop but one; repeat as
before.
Double open Crochet is done by drawing it
through in the same manner as you did for the single, but omitting the
one-loop stitch until you have done two long stitches between each of
the long ones.
Treble open Crochet is much the same as the
preceding patterns, but having three long stitches and three loop
stitches between; in the next row,
remember to make the long stitches upon the loops, and the loops on the
preceding long stitches; you increase
by going twice in the same loop, and decrease by missing one loop.
There is another stitch called the Treble
Vandyke open Crochet, which is done by three long stitches, but
put through the same loop.[49]
A PRETTY NECK
TIE,
OF TREBLE OPEN CROCHET, AND TWO COLOURS IN
DOUBLE BERLIN.
Cast on one hundred and forty loops, and do one row of each colour;
three of white and five of coloured will make it wide enough; finish
with a chenille tassel at each end.
A NEW SOFA
PILLOW,
IN TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.
Choose nine shades of double Berlin wool. Cast on eighty loops, and
commence with the darkest shade; one row of each colour to the lightest,
and the same to the darkest. You may do them in shaded wool, with white
between: make it about three complete stripes or half-a-yard square; you
can crochet both sides, or have silk at the back.
A
CARPET BAG.
This is done in the plain double crochet, also in plain double Berlin
wool. Cast on sixty[50]
loops, and choose a pretty crochet pattern for the border on each
side—say a narrow border of green leaves, perhaps ten or twelve stitches
wide, on a scarlet ground, the centre a black ground, with a diamond
arabesque pattern, in bright golds, scarlets, greens, and blues; to be
about half-a-yard wide altogether, with the border on the other side;
you can vary the other part of the bag at pleasure. They are made up
with patent leather sides and bottom, with steel at the top. In working
patterns, be particular to pass the whole between the needle and the
wool you are working with.
NECK
REST, OR CUSHION,
FOR THE BACK OF A CHAIR.
These are very comfortable for an invalid, they are generally done in
shaded wool, and six colours, say scarlet, green, lilac, orange, blue
and drab. Cast on ninety loops, and eight rows of each colour; this is
done in the plain double crochet, and when you cast on the loops[51]
for the foundation, join the ends, and work round, they are finished
with velvet ends, and two pieces of cord round each piece of
velvet; black looks better than
coloured.
A
BRIOCHE, OR TURKISH CUSHION.
Cast on thirty loops with black wool, crochet four rows all round,
increasing one stitch at the end; then take a skein of shaded double
Berlin, and commence one stitch below the point of the black; work round
to the top of the other side, then commence four loops below, and work
till within four of the other side, and so on for eight rows, leaving
three less each time; twelve pieces are required done in this manner;
all different colours are prettier, or at least six, and repeat them
once when you have finished, then crochet them all together and six rows
completely round the bottom; you will find you have a space in the
middle; crochet enough rows to fill this up, decreasing every three
loops; make a round cushion, and cover[52]
it with your crochet: put a Brioche mount in the centre.
A VERY ELEGANT
BAG,
IN FRENCH BLUE SILK, AND STEEL BEADS.
Commence by casting on three hundred loops, and crochet six plain
rows in black, then thread your beads on the blue, and crochet a piece,
which is done by making the wrong side of crochet the right; when you
are putting on the beads, you must put your needle through the loop,
pass a bead up close to the stitch, and finish it, and so on, until the
piece is completed; then twelve rows plain, in blue, and six black; the
seventh and eighth are done in the plain open crochet. To pass the cord
through, you ought to choose a pattern from forty to fifty rows deep.
You may also do round bags, commencing with three stitches, and
increasing one in every other, for the first six rounds, and one in
every three, for the next twelve, and so on until the bottom is large
enough; then as many rounds[53]
as you require for the size of the bag; they are pretty in stripes of
different colours, with beads or patterns of another colour, upon every
alternate stripe.
Cast on one hundred and forty loops, crochet one plain row, then one
row of plain open crochet in every loop, one row of the open Vandyke
treble crochet; the following of close crochet, if done correctly, will
form a leaf. First—work along stitch in every loop. Second—work
three long stitches into three loops, make four chain stitches, miss two
loops of the foundation, work a stitch of double plain crochet into the
next, make four chain stitches, miss two of the foundation, and repeat.
Third row—work three long stitches over the three in the last
row, make five chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet over the
one in the last row, make five chain stitches, and repeat. Fourth
round—the same as the third. Fifth row—work five stitches of
double crochet, beginning on the last[54]
chain stitches; before the three long stitches in last row, make eight
chain stitches, and repeat one row quite round of the single open
crochet; in every loop at the corners of the collar, you must increase
two stitches at each end row. To commence the border, or edge of the
collar, which of course is carried round as the preceding row—First
row—make a long stitch, make one chain stitch, work another long
stitch in the same loop, make three chain stitches, miss two of the
foundation, and repeat. Second row—work a long stitch into the
one chain stitch in last row, make one chain stitch, work another long
stitch into the same place, make two chain stitches, and repeat.Third
row—the same as the second. Fourth row—work a long stitch
into the one chain stitch of the last row, make six chain stitches, and
repeat: these collars may be worked in many other patterns, some of
which are to be found in a book called Crochet Collars. No. 14, or 16,
Boar’s-head cotton, and a small steel needle is required.
[55]
A
PLAIN PURSE.
Cast on seventy or eighty loops, and crochet six rows in double open
crochet; it is prettier in two colours, say French blue, and Ponceau,
seven stripes are wide enough; they look well with one end square, and a
fringe of beads at the bottom.
A MOUCHOIR CASE,
IN TREBLE VANDYKE CROCHET.
Choose any pretty shades, or shaded double Berlin, with rather a
small sized hook; cast on one hundred loops, and crochet if in shades,
one row of each colour, about thirty rows is required to make it wide
enough; they are joined so as to leave it open down the centre, and
lined with silk or satin; you will find them better with some scent in
between the lining: they are to be fastened with a pretty button, or
ribbon.
WARM MUFFATEES.
Cast on for a gentleman, forty loops in double[56]
Berlin, and crochet twenty rounds in shaded wool, then six rows of the
chain open crochet; ladies’ may be done in single wool.
RAISED CROCHET SLIPPERS.
These are to be done in two colours, say shaded blue or scarlet, with
black stripes between; cast on twelve loops, crochet four rows in black,
increasing one stitch on each side, and one in the middle, this will
form a point on the top of the foot; then two rows of red wool,
increasing; you ought to have three stripes of black, and two of
coloured; leave all the stitches except twelve at the side, continue six
stripes of black, and seven of coloured: will make them large enough for
a lady; join the stripe to twelve stitches on the other side, sew these
to a cork sole, and bind them round the top with ribbon.
ANTI-MACASSAR,
IN SIX SHADES OF WOOL, OR COARSE COTTON, TO
IMITATE OLD LACE.
Cast on one hundred and thirty loops, crochet[57]
one plain row, then commence with four stitches in the single open
crochet; make four loops, miss two of the foundation, four long
stitches, four chain stitches, and so on, in the next row; be particular
to make the long stitches come over the chain, and vice versa;
one row of the double open crochet quite round, one of the single
another of the double open, and then a pretty Vandyke edge, if in wool,
one row of each shade.
SHAWL.
These made with two coloured grounds in stripes, are very handsome;
say black and white, with a pattern of two colours, four shades of each,
perhaps lilacs and greens on the white ground, and French blue and
scarlet on the black, with a narrow stripe of gold colour, between each
stripe of the ground. Cast on five loops with black, and increase one
stitch at the commencement, one in the middle, and one at the end; then
break off your wool, and commence at the same side, this is at the neck,[58]
and is to be done in the plain double crochet; continue in this manner
until the shawl is large enough, then loop on a fringe; these must be
done in double German wool, with the fringe in fleecy.
WATCH CHAINS.
Cast on five loops, and crochet round until long enough; beads may be
introduced the same as on purses, which have a very pretty effect.
LADIES’ CUFFS,
IN SHADED SINGLE WOOL.
Cast on forty-four loops, and crochet one row of single open, and one
row of plain double; six rows in the same manner; then do three rows on
each side, in the chain open crochet, run ribbon in and out; these have
a very pretty effect; they are to be joined and done round.
[59]
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